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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mugs Stump
Page Views: 182 total, 7/month
Shared By: Todd H on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Dark Star is a nice adventure pitch that packs in a variety of challenges in both the climbing and the protection. Start the same as Pandora, jamming and stemming your way up the left facing corner then move right onto the juggy slab. Continue up and right, passing below Pandora's first bolt, to follow cracks leading up the right side of the giant bulge. Smearing on somewhat crumbly rock and dodging guano makes this section more difficult than it appears from the ground. After reaching a good rest in a smattering of white rock, follow wild juggy cracks angling right out the roof to a fun mantel and the anchors. Great rock on the final third of the route. There is a bolt protected second pitch called Dark Star Too (.12a/b).

Location

Right-most route in the Tower One cave. Splits right from Pandora. Shelter from the Storm is the next climb to the right, around the corner.

Protection

Doubles up to BD #1, single BD #3, and several slings. The line zigzags a lot so be careful of rope drag. Despite some awkward placements in the roof, Dark Star offers good pro where you need it. The anchor consists of two bolts and a pin, currently equalized with carabiners on a bunch of slings.

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Stump was the MAN! Aug 25, 2015
Todd H
Sandy, UT
 
Todd H   Sandy, UT
 
I thought Dark Star felt much easier than Pandora and maybe slightly harder than Medussa but went with the grade in the book. It would be interesting to see a consensus develop on this one.
Also, most of the tat at the anchor is crusty or bleached. Consider bringing up a knife and some new webbing, or better yet chains. Aug 25, 2015