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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower One
The Gatekeeper
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 20
votes
Routes in Tower One
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(no name?) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bollocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brainless Conformants S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell Yes! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell's Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pandora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Satan's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Voyage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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What the Hell S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 40.59015, -111.64812 |
| FA: | Alex Lemieux, June 2021 |
| Page Views: | 786 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Lemieux on Jul 2, 2021 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Gatekeeper is a new route on the right side of Tower 1.
A 70m rope is barely enough to get you down. If using a 60m rope, belay at the ledge with single bolt.
Scramble up the easy slab to a high 1st bolt on the left wall. Good left hand side-pulls and stemming leads over the 1st roof. Move slightly right past the roof to gain a big ledge under 2nd roof. Once again find some good left hand side-pulls then move right and continue up past a face move with thin feet. A final section on soft white rock with a couple pockets guards access to the anchor.
***Careful of loose rocks while getting lowered on descent***
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