Avg: 3.3 from 10 votes
|Type:||Sport, 95 ft (29 m)|
|FA:||Alex Lemieux, Aug. 2019 with help from A. Mollard and A. Sinclair|
|Page Views:||1,144 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Lemieux on Sep 25, 2019|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start by surmounting a small roof past the 1st bolt and continue up on easy ground up to the bulge guarding access to the steep face. High-step over bulge to get established on the impressive headwall. Stemming or using the corner to the right is OFF ROUTE and is considered POOR FORM!
The crux is a hard clip at bolt #10 followed by a technical traverse left across the blank face ending at a great rest on the arête. (The 2 old bolts out left are off route). The crux requires good footwork and tendons of steel!
Note that you won't be able to see the leader after he pulls the bulge.
CAUTION ***This is a new route and might still have loose rock***
Lower-off from steel biners at anchor (please don’t top rope in them).