Type: Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: A Lemieux, A Mollard, 7/2019
Page Views: 1,677 total · 28/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jul 26, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas DetailsDrop down

Overly Hyped Description Suggest change

Have you ever wondered why this particular chunk of Tower One has been ignored by at least two generations of choss connoisseurs? Is it because it looks like a late-stage game of limestone Jenga? Make Satan's Choice to find out...

Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.

Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on Darren, this isn't the Gunks) to 11a. You've been warned.

CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.

Location Suggest change

The route starts a few feet left of the black rock gully which houses Rezin Scraper. It tackles a broad pillar located right where the approach trail flattens out and starts following the base of the tower.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.

Protection Suggest change

14 fat bolts to chains. Bring 2 or 3 long runners for bolts 6-8 (at least 6 & 7) or suffer from rope drag (bolt placements were dictated by rock quality).
70 m rope mandatory, the anchor is higher than on Rezin Scraper and down-climbing the bottom would be sketchy.

Photos

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