Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: A Lemieux, A Mollard, 7/2019
Page Views: 476 total · 57/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jul 26, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details

Description

Have you ever wondered why this particular chunk of Tower One has been ignored by at least two generations of choss connoisseurs? Is it because it looks like a late-stage game of limestone Jenga? Make Satan's Choice to find out...

Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.

Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on guy, this isn't the Gunks and your shit isn't impressing anyone) to 11a. You've been warned.

CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.

Location

The route starts a few feet left of the black rock gully which houses Rezin Scraper. It tackles a broad pillar located right where the approach trail flattens out and starts following the base of the tower.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.

Protection

14 fat bolts to chains. Bring 2 or 3 long runners for bolts 6-8 (at least 6 & 7) or suffer from rope drag (bolt placements were dictated by rock quality).
70 m rope mandatory, the anchor is higher than on Rezin Scraper and down-climbing the bottom would be sketchy.

If you look hard enough you'll find a pounded-in stud which will be patched shortly.

Photos