Avg: 2.9 from 48 votes
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||A Lemieux, A Mollard, 7/2019|
|Page Views:||1,456 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Jul 26, 2019|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.
Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on Darren, this isn't the Gunks) to 11a. You've been warned.
CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.