Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dave Madera, Pat McInerney and Bill Hunt, 1991
Page Views: 1,645 total · 9/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details

Description

This is a fantastic two pitch route that is easily combined on one long pitch. The gear is there and solid in the dark grey compact rock and the bolts were drilled on lead in bold style. The advantage of a route protected like this is that you can hang out and scope out the moves between bolts before casting off. The upper pitch has really cool huge edge climbing and requires some nice body tension. One of my favorite climbs.

Location

This starts near the bottom of Tower 1 in the dark compact rock. Its 20-30 feet around the corner from the main cave. You can see the crack and the dihedral with the bolts. Belaying below the crack start on the left makes it a bit harder to see the climber as they move beyond the dihedral and onto the upper pitch. The upper pitch is on the white limestone but in a dark streak.

Protection

medium to hand sized cams and nuts, (I just brought my standard rack but you don't need much of it) lots and lots of long runners and quickdraws. Please don't forget your helmet.

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