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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Madera, Pat McInerney and Bill Hunt, 1991
Page Views: 987 total · 7/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details


This is a fantastic two pitch route that is easily combined on one long pitch. The gear is there and solid in the dark grey compact rock and the bolts were drilled on lead in bold style. The advantage of a route protected like this is that you can hang out and scope out the moves between bolts before casting off. The upper pitch has really cool huge edge climbing and requires some nice body tension. One of my favorite climbs.


This starts near the bottom of Tower 1 in the dark compact rock. Its 20-30 feet around the corner from the main cave. You can see the crack and the dihedral with the bolts. The upper pitch is on the white limestone but in a dark streak.


medium to hand sized cams and nuts, (I just brought my standard rack but you don't need much of it) lots and lots of long runners and quickdraws. Please don't forget your helmet.


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Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
this is a great route but for me much harder and scarier than the 11a's up the hill. Jun 14, 2007
Allen Sanderson
  5.11 PG13
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  5.11 PG13
I would agree that it is harder than 5.11a. We also found the route to be flithy dirty. No way would it be worth the stars in the condition we found it. YUK!! Sep 1, 2007
I pulled a bunch of choss off of the second pitch last night. It only took some hand pulling and prying with a nut tool, and it is still a little dirty so bring a brush. I also replaced the tat on the one bolt holding the rap ring on the second pitch anchor. Cool route, it just needs a little more love. I lowered off with a 75m from the top and had about 10' of rope leftover. Jul 30, 2010
This route is pretty awesome! Make sure you're ready for a mental and physical challenge¬Ö Climb it in one long pitch for sure. It starts pretty mellow with a few gear placements and once you get to the first bolt it is pretty sustained the whole way. Felt more like an 5.11+ with tricky route finding, sparse bolting and technical climbing. 70m rope barely gets you down from top anchor, careful!!! Old sling at top anchor should be replaced by a chain. The rock is solid and not chossy or loose at all. Do it!!! Jul 25, 2015
bheller   SL UT
So close to 4 stars! 11c full value! Link in one pitch to the top and lower-pull-lower from the middle anchors. Aug 29, 2016

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