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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Sara G, Greg M, Luke D, 9/9/03
Page Views: 1,491 total, 12/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description (middle of wall, unga bunga, climb stuff. ugh)

Bollocks - that's what you might find yourself mumbling (shouting?) when lowering off the route straight into thick brush. But that's only half the fun!

Bollocks features fun climbing on big ole' jugs through a right trending vertical wall. Cool undercling moves abound, the climbing is sustained and straightforward, the bolts where you want them... What more do you want from a warm-up?
Cleaning this one can be a pain as thick patches of oak loom to the right. You'll swing in there if you lower and battle them if you rap. Use your brainz.

Location

Bollocks is the easternmost route on Tower 1, it starts about 30' right of JimmyG's What the Hell. Look for a prow/sub-tower with a fat roof on the east side of Tower 1. You'll spot bolts heading out of a steep dirt gully capped with brush to the right of said sub-tower.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolts chain anchor.

Photos

skiandclimb
  5.9+
skiandclimb  
  5.9+
Fun route and a good warm-up. Barely 5.10, probably the easiest bolted route on Tower 1. Rock gets better as you go up. Jul 25, 2015
Allen Briggs  
 
Does anyone know what the bolted line is directly below the anchors? About 3-4 bolts through steep terrain before linking back with Bollocks. Fun stuff, felt around 10c or 10d. Oct 5, 2014
split161
  5.9-
split161  
  5.9-
jug haul...5.9- Sep 7, 2013
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.9
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.9
Amazing. Wow that view is drop dead gorgeous. I love this place. Aug 4, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
An easy warm up. Another one of those 5.8/10a sport climbs that abound in the gym and sometimes outside. Worth doing, but not 5.10. Apr 23, 2012
grego
SLC, Utah
grego   SLC, Utah
Not the best route. Did not seem like a 5.10, more like 5.9 Aug 21, 2009
Robert MacKinnon
  5.10a
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.10a
This route starts in a small and short gully. Jul 31, 2008