Avg: 2.6 from 18 votes
|Type:||Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||9 26 04|
|Page Views:||1,534 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Sep 4, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Begin (obviously) at the 3 bolt anchor at the top of CFA. A 4th bolt a foot up and right from the belay station will save you from a factor-2 fall on the anchor while you extricate yourself from the ledge, the bulge in your face pushing you back and the holds mysteriously refusing to appear where you want them. A few insecure big moves deposit you above the anchor on brittle rock. Tackle a strange technical crux to get into a lieback/undercling feature, pull above it and gingerly pick your way up the slab on fragile looking holds and the occasional questionable intrusion of black rock.
Even though the climbing is moderate, the exposure and rock quality make for a great tip-toeing experience (and we didn't break anything). Bolts everywhere save the day.
Lower off to the CFA anchors, manage your rope clusterfuck (multipitch spurt climbing what?), rap to the ground.