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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 9 26 04
Page Views: 1,014 total, 8/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description (2 cruxes, go up stuff, pull on things)

Brainless Conformants is the 2nd pitch of Cause for Alarm, a sweet 10c that tackles a striking dihedral feature on the vertical S face of Tower 1. Be warned though, the second pitch is quite different in nature and might scare your pants off.

Begin (obviously) at the 3 bolt anchor at the top of CFA. A 4th bolt a foot up and right from the belay station will save you from a factor-2 fall on the anchor while you extricate yourself from the ledge, the bulge in your face pushing you back and the holds mysteriously refusing to appear where you want them. A few insecure big moves deposit you above the anchor on brittle rock. Tackle a strange technical crux to get into a lieback/undercling feature, pull above it and gingerly pick your way up the slab on fragile looking holds and the occasional questionable intrusion of black rock.
Even though the climbing is moderate, the exposure and rock quality make for a great tip-toeing experience (and we didn't break anything). Bolts everywhere save the day.

Lower off to the CFA anchors, manage your rope clusterfuck (multipitch spurt climbing what?), rap to the ground.

Location

Approach Brainless Conformant by climbing Cause for Alarm. Tackling the whole thing in one long pitch seems feasible considering the amount of back cleaning you can do on P1 (hint: keep every 3rd draw). Expect rope drag and fear if you do it that way though.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolts chain anchor + whatever you need for P1 (12 draws, although 9 is fine too).

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John Steiger  
 
As suggested in Boissal’s write-up, we did Cause for Alarm and Brainless in one pitch, but it took some long runners and, if we hadn’t done some backcleaning, would have required about 22 draws. Well worth the effort to get a good full-tower pitch. An 80 meter rope didn’t make the ground though, so either two ropes or two rappels necessary to get down. Seems to have cleaned up well – about as solid as the white stuff at Hellgate gets. I’m goin’ 3 stars, 10d for the whole enchilada. Jul 30, 2015
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I'm not sure why this pitch would scare you're pants off. It's very tightly bolted, and there is only one move, right off the belay, that approaches the grade given. But the exposure is fantastic, and the dramatic change in the rock mid-pitch is interesting to experience. Jul 23, 2013
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Much harder than 10b.......maybe it has cleaned up a bit since I got first ascent. A much stiffer second pitch to cause for alarm. Jul 9, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b/c
A very nice second pitch to the route that should be done since it is one of the better pitches on the wall. A rare hard move that tops out in the 5.10 range, lots of rests, plenty of bolts - just fun climbing. Apr 23, 2012