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> Wasatch Range
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> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower One
Brainless Conformants
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 21
votes
Routes in Tower One
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(no name?) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brainless Conformants S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hell Yes! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell's Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pandora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Satan's Choice S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Voyage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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What the Hell S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Grey, Clark Olsen, Greg Martinez 9 26 04 |
| Page Views: | 2,147 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 4, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description (2 cruxes, go up stuff, pull on things)
Brainless Conformants is the 2nd pitch of Cause for Alarm, a sweet 10c that tackles a striking dihedral feature on the vertical S face of Tower 1. Be warned though, the second pitch is quite different in nature and might scare your pants off.
Begin (obviously) at the 3 bolt anchor at the top of CFA. A 4th bolt a foot up and right from the belay station will save you from a factor-2 fall on the anchor while you extricate yourself from the ledge, the bulge in your face pushing you back and the holds mysteriously refusing to appear where you want them. A few insecure big moves deposit you above the anchor on brittle rock. Tackle a strange technical crux to get into a lieback/undercling feature, pull above it and gingerly pick your way up the slab on fragile looking holds and the occasional questionable intrusion of black rock.
Even though the climbing is moderate, the exposure and rock quality make for a great tip-toeing experience (and we didn't break anything). Bolts everywhere save the day.
Lower off to the CFA anchors, manage your rope clusterfuck (multipitch spurt climbing what?), rap to the ground.
Begin (obviously) at the 3 bolt anchor at the top of CFA. A 4th bolt a foot up and right from the belay station will save you from a factor-2 fall on the anchor while you extricate yourself from the ledge, the bulge in your face pushing you back and the holds mysteriously refusing to appear where you want them. A few insecure big moves deposit you above the anchor on brittle rock. Tackle a strange technical crux to get into a lieback/undercling feature, pull above it and gingerly pick your way up the slab on fragile looking holds and the occasional questionable intrusion of black rock.
Even though the climbing is moderate, the exposure and rock quality make for a great tip-toeing experience (and we didn't break anything). Bolts everywhere save the day.
Lower off to the CFA anchors, manage your rope clusterfuck (multipitch spurt climbing what?), rap to the ground.
Location
Approach Brainless Conformant by climbing Cause for Alarm. Tackling the whole thing in one long pitch seems feasible considering the amount of back cleaning you can do on P1 (hint: keep every 3rd draw). Expect rope drag and fear if you do it that way though.
Photos
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