Avg: 2.6 from 29 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||7/9/04 Greg M, Luke D, Jim Finen|
|Page Views:||847 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal . on Sep 4, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start with scrambling moves up a corner to a chest-height roof that can be bypassed to the right (as evidenced by the amount of chalk there, WEAKSAUCE) or tackled straight on using a tough sequence involving pinches and hidden slick feet. Once established, expect more of the same through the next couple of bulgy cruxes, culminating in some WTF insecure moves by a pine tree. Take a breath there and manage the pump through the more spaced out last couple of bolts.
Establish on the ramp, take a look at the 2nd pitch of Cheap Thrills, consider claiming the bail biner up there then decide against it and lower from the widely separated chain anchors.
A steep broken gully/trough sits to the immediate right of A&H and the route brushes against a short sturdy pine growing about halway up this trough.