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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 7/9/04 Greg M, Luke D, Jim Finen
Page Views: 218 total, 2/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description (2 cruxes)

Arm and Hammered is a little burl-fest that tackles a series of roofs on the face of Tower 1.

Start with scrambling moves up a corner to a chest-height roof that can be bypassed to the right (as evidenced by the amount of chalk there, WEAKSAUCE) or tackled straight on using a tough sequence involving pinches and hidden slick feet. Once established, expect more of the same through the next couple of bulgy cruxes, culminating in some WTF insecure moves by a pine tree. Take a breath there and manage the pump through the more spaced out last couple of bolts.
Establish on the ramp, take a look at the 2nd pitch of Cheap Thrills, consider claiming the bail biner up there then decide against it and lower from the widely separated chain anchors.

Location

A&H can be found about 15' to the right of Cheap Thrills (see Ruckmans), a route easily recognizable by a steep white right-facing dihedral with a lone bolt in the middle.
A steep broken gully/trough sits to the immediate right of A&H and the route brushes against a short sturdy pine growing about halway up this trough.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolts chain anchor.

Photos

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KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Great crimps with a variety of side pulls and slopey feet. Aug 4, 2012
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Ah of course.

Thanks. Jul 31, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
2nd pitch is probably P2 of Cheap Thrills. I seem to remember 2 bolt + chain anchor, weird... Jul 31, 2012
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Anyone know what the 2nd pitch of this is? The anchor was a lone bolt, so we donated a locker.
And, no, I aint gonna buy a guide from IME. Just spill it. Jul 31, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10d
Cryptic moves on steep slopers with some slippery feet on really solid rock. One of the best sport routes on this wall - definately worth doing. Apr 23, 2012