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Routes in Main Hellgate

Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 380 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Nathan Smith, Jake Hirschi 2015
Page Views: 3,415 total, 223/month
Shared By: zoso on Sep 9, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Use the established trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

4 pitches of well bolted Hellgate goodness. Expect mostly good rock with some of the usual for the area. Not soft for the grade. A great line. Thanks to the FA's for all the work.

Location

Find the start by, you know, by looking at the picture in the book.
Nuff said.

4 raps with a 60m. A 70m gives you a bit of breathing room though.

Protection

All draws.
P1: 12 bolts. Crux is the obvious little roof/bulge...5.9?
P2: 12 bolts. Traverse left a bit into a shallow corner.
P3: 16 bolts. Enjoy the pockets. Best pitch.
P4: 12? bolts. Slabbier and a bit dirty here and there but still fun to nearly top out. Shares anchor with Walking with Giants.
Nathan Gordon
SLC, UT
Nathan Gordon   SLC, UT
Be careful, the bolt protecting the first overhang is actually loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself was moving. Sep 24, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Excellent setting, cool moves, and momentum spaced bolts. Even if there are a few spinners, one could easily clip every other bolt and still safely climb this. In fact, it's pretty easy to miss bolts especially on the 3rd pitch which tends to move around a bit. In any case, hats off to the FA team, this route must have cost a lot in bolts and time. Not to mention the vision for a moderate multi on main hellgate.

Great for new leaders, and anyone looking for an easier sport multi pitch. If you're comfortable at the grade, have long slings, and a 70m, I would recommend linking P1-P2 and P3-P4. May want 20 draws if you do this.

One note on the final pitch, this ends on a ledge that will likely have a good amount of choss. If you want to avoid choss, this is the pitch to skip, but you are at hellgate, and you wore your helmet (right? seriously it is insane not to wear one at Hellgate), it does get you to a cool spot at the top of the wall. I personally couldn't resist. Jun 28, 2017
Buddy Lindsey
  5.8+
Buddy Lindsey  
  5.8+
Incredible fun!

Approach tip: See the aerial photo with red and blue lines to see exactly how to find the route.

Pitch 2 tip: At Anchor 1 you will see a single bolt straight above you about 10 feet. I don't know what this bolt is for. To reach the second pitch one must traverse to the left (west) about 10 feet, where there is another bolt at waist level and a clear line straight up from there.

Be so careful when climbing to kick down as little scree as possible.

I corroborate Kyle's use of all caps--BRING A HELMET. This was such an amazing experience for me and I will be going back as soon as I purchase a helmet.

60M was barely enough rope to rappel from anchor 3 to anchor 2, and again from anchor 1 to the ground.

Personally I would give this a 5.8+. Maybe that's just because it was 4 ******* pitches. Jun 27, 2017
Recent photos show a sketchy bolt. Most the bolts are in good shape. This route is bolted every 8-12 feet, so it feels quite safe. More than the bolts, be aware of loose rock. We climbed this route and a couple of times, holds pulled right off. Most of the rock is quite solid, it's just that a few sections has crumbly crimps and jugs. Wear a helmet and I would not recommend climbing this route if someone is above you. There are enough diagonal and traversing sections that you usually don't have to worry about the rock falling on you as much as those waiting to climb below (they could be in danger from the stuff you knock off). Enjoyable scenery and, I believe, worth climbing, despite the loose stuff. Jun 24, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Glad your'e OK.

As a reminder, the main Hellgate cliff in general should be avoided after storms and in the spring. Mid summer and dry Falls are considered safest. Nov 1, 2016
Kyle Rummens
North Salt Lake, UT
Kyle Rummens   North Salt Lake, UT
BRING A HELMET. I almost died yesterday when a bowling ball sized rock landed inches from me at the bottom of the climb. I don't think a helmet would have done much in that situation... but still. bring a helmet. Nov 1, 2016
zaq
5.9
zaq  
5.9
Climbed earlier today, there is for sure a pitch above the 3rd anchors. Didnt do it because of time restrictions.

A lot of loose rock, even on the route. Classic hellgate Sep 18, 2016