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Routes in Main Hellgate

Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, spring 1994
Page Views: 2,390 total, 18/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Use the established trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Really fun climbing on the Main Hellgate. This is an adventure route that starts with a nice hand and face pitch. Next is is an .11a pocket crux pitch on bolts and then two more pitches of .10 and .9 bolted climbing. Its best to avoid the main hellgate in the Spring due to incessant and frequent rockfall.


Starts in a right facing corner about 60 feet left of a dark streak in the middle of the main wall.


I brought a standard rack but only used medium cams. Long runners and quickdraws help avoid rope drag. I can't remember if we did two double rope rappels or one double rope and one single rope rappel. Do NOT forget your helmet.


Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
Beware 3rd pitch bolt hangers. Non CE rated Russian rigs that have a tendency to deform. Should probably get replaced with better hardware. Aug 28, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
Aside from the final choss pitch (which we didn't do), you can rap this route easily with a single 70m. We rapped down Hell Raiser. Jul 10, 2013
Attempted the actual start to this today. Tenesmus's description is a bit off me thinks. By far and away, I'd recommend the "Hell Raiser" start--much more fun and safe.
The topo in the Ruckman guide is pretty nondescript so here's some blathering:
From the belay bolt, head up and right with about a 30' run out over very easy ground. Clip the 1st bolt. The second one is close-ish on the dark mini-arete on the left. Now plug a piece or 2 into a flake system (easy). Find a bolt @ it's terminus hiding under a bush. Now climb 8 feet or so above said bolt, look everywhere for ANY gear opportunities and then bail on that bolt below you.
The anchor looms about 25' above. Seems like 5.9, thin, fragile, and techy climbing. If you have the balls, fess up. Just seems odd to have this much of a runout, although I did enjoy the adventure of it all. Jul 31, 2012
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
Just did the variation to the right - it links in just below the 5.11- pitch and continues to the top of this route. Awesome climb!!!!!! Only a few cams (2x#0.5, 1x#2) are needed on P1 (a yellow TCU to a Blue camamlot fit, but you don't need a full rack so maybe take one of every other size). Pitch two was really really fun and STEEP!!!.

Thanks for putting up the route! Jun 6, 2009
Just so someone doesn't get in over their head, Tenesmus reports this as being 300 feet....sure, the first two pitches. If one does this route or it's neighbor Hell Raiser (5 pitches) or any of the other Main Hellgate routes that go to the top, expect a few more feet of climbing and to need 2 ropes for the abseil. Tenesmus is such a good climber, he probably 4th classed the first couple of pitches up there. For the rest of us gumbies, it is indeed.....bigger. Sep 22, 2007