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Routes in Main Hellgate

Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bret Ruckman & Gary Olsen 1988
Page Views: 908 total, 8/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Use the established trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

past 1st bolt. I would call it 10dR THERE`S 1 BOLT NOT 2 & I COULDN'T FIND GEAR PLACEMENT SCARY WON`T DO AGAIN

Location

left of Devil`s Den

Protection

GEAR & 1 bolt to anchors

Photos

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zoso
 
zoso  
 
For the life of me I couldn't see a bolt to the right of the 1st bolt on P1, so I didn't dare venture. I'd appreciate some info on where it is so I know how R it is and so forth. Anyone? Feb 25, 2011
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Send me a message if someone is willing to rewrite the route description here - i'll reassign it to you. Nov 18, 2008
James,
First of all thanks for snagging that old fixed line off the cliff. My bad. I put that up myself after Marbellous was completed, in the fall of 1988. I was going to rap bolt a pitch to the right off of the top of the first pitch for a more direct second pitch. Then the weather hit and I moved away. So thanks again for removing the tat.

Marbellous was put up in three days, all ground-up by Bret R and I. On the second pitch I hung off a hook to place one of the bolts and Bret R added another one (on the second pitch) after we had lead it because he thought we had run it out to much. In 1988 Mugs Stump was kind of bumbed out that some of us were rapp bolting on the Towers. Marbellous was Bret's and my response to Mugs that we could also do the ground up thing. The last crack on Marbellous is a rotten mess, but the first 1 1/2 pitches are good. Bolts are getting old now though so be wary.

I still think that a more direct second pitch would be cool, someone ought to go for it. Bret had wanted me to go more directly on the second pitch, but on the sharp end I gravitated to the rotten crack. Nov 10, 2008
James Garrett
  5.10d
James Garrett  
  5.10d
Harder? I was under the impression that Marbelous (Pitch #2 for sure) was rap drilled. I just read elsewhere that it was drilled on lead by the Ruckmans...guess I couldn't figure out what that fixed rope was doing up there. Different for that part of the Hellgate. Still a great route...you'll give it a star. Oh...It slipped my mind, he actually told me once he did 5 in a day...I guess he added something from Question Mark Wall into the mix while up in LPC before blasting over to Hogum Fork. What a force! Sep 25, 2008
maybe its harder to rap bolt? that's a cool pennings factoid. Sep 24, 2008
James Garrett
  5.10d
James Garrett  
  5.10d
It seems covered quite well in the Ruckman Guidebook. Judging by how little other Main Wall routes have been reported or starred on this site...maybe I should leave that to more recent visitors/climbers. I mean, Hellraiser used to be on Pennings's enchainment/workout program (Triple Overhangs-Hogum's Heroes-Hellraiser-Black Streak in a day, and in that order) back in the day...the Main Wall doesn't seem to draw much attention these days, compared to the crags. Sep 24, 2008
James - you told me this was really cool and I always wanted to do it. Maybe you wouldn't mind fleshing out the description a little for us? Sep 24, 2008
James Garrett
  5.10d
James Garrett  
  5.10d
Marbelous is an awesome climb, when I did it, a fixed line from the equipping party was still there and bleached beyond recognition. We cleaned it off. The 2nd pitch was the money pitch IMO, and was relatively well bolted. I was scared leading it though as well....it isn't protected like a Gregorio route, that's for sure...good rock though on the first pitch especially! Sep 23, 2008