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Routes in Main Hellgate

Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 265 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Carl Dec and Jeff Rhoads
Page Views: 920 total, 62/month
Shared By: cdec on Sep 28, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Use the established trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

3 pitches of bolted climbing. The route is a great combination of friction, edging, pockets and thin technical climbing on the second pitch. Good rock is the norm on this one.

P1 5.9+ 80' 10 bolts
There is a 2 bolt belay to provide security and to allow rappelling to the ground. Start just left, then trend right and up to base of shallow right facing corner.
Belay at 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.10c 90' 12 bolts
Follow bolts up corner and then onto upper face and 2 bolt belay. Climbing is technical and thin but well protected.

P3 5.8 80' 10 bolts
Follow bolts up through small roof to 2 bolt belay. Alpine draw for 3rd bolt helpful. Bolt needed to be left due to rock quality.

Location

Pearly Gates starts on good ledge about 40' above and left of Highway to Hell. Easy scramble is found just left of overhanging rock left of Highway to Hell start. There is a 2 bolt belay at the base of pitch 1.

Descent: Rap with a single 60m.

Protection

12 draws. 1 alpine draw is helpful on 3rd pitch.
zoso
  5.10c
zoso  
  5.10c
Great route. 5.9, 10c, 5.8. Well bolted and quite clean. Each pitch has a different character and are all worthy. EZ to combine P2 and P3 with a 70m. Thanks! Aug 2, 2017