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Routes in Main Hellgate

Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and George Jamison, July 1995
Page Views: 2,984 total · 32/month
Shared By: Mike Minson on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Use the established trails Details

Description

Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of Till Hell Freezes Over. Independent of its neighbor, Hell Raiser is more of an approach pitch to Til Hell Freezes Over. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb Hell Raiser as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of Til Hell Freezes Over's second pitch.

P1 is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)
P2 follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)

Stop here or continue via one bolt to join Til Hell Freezes Over's 2nd pitch.

P3 traverses left past a bolt and then joins Till Hell Freezes Over. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to Till Hell Freezes Over(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.
P4 is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).
P5 is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)

Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.

Location

There is a fixed pin at eye level at the start. 50 feet to the right of Till Hell Freezes Over. P1 is the black slab with the obvious dihedral on the left.

Protection

The first pitch consists of three or four bolts mixed with small placements in the corner crack on the left. TCU's or C3's useful. Bring lots of draws or extendables. The last pitch has several bolts and takes intermediate placements up to .75" cams.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
The first four pitches can be rapped with a 60m but make sure its a full 60! Did not see a pin at the start but there is a glue-in below the first bolt. Excellent route! Jul 5, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Pitch 1-nothing special, just decent 5.8 dihedral climbing requiring a few trad pieces and 3-4 bolts. huge gravel ledge for belay.
2-best pitch of the climb, short bulge crux then fun big hold arete climbing. all bolts
3-traverse hard left, then back right with crux again over bulge with small sidepulls to a big pocket, then follow a small crack to anchors. bad feet. all bolts, short pitch
4-traverse left again, then up slabbier rock for a long ways. all bolts. weird hardware anchor. longest pitch.

didn't do last pitch, but can confirm 70m is good for rapping first 4 pitches. a fun route worth doing once. Jul 10, 2013
Alec LaLonde
  5.10b
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10b
This should probably be re-categorized as the 2-pitch approach to Till Hell Freezes Over, to make the grade more obvious. It seems like the more obvious of the lines, also, especially with the way the raps are rigged. Crux (p3/11a) contains some excellent climbing. -noted Sep 8, 2014
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
Beware 3rd pitch bolt hangers. Non CE rated Russian rigs that have a tendency to deform. Should probably get replaced with better hardware. Aug 28, 2017

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