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Surf’s Up!
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A4+ R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Main Hellgate
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Bone Collector WI5- M5 Mod. Snow R |
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Day for a Daydream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil Goat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Drip, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hell Raiser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hellgate Highway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marbellous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Paw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Parabola T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1+ |
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Pearly Gates, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Spawn, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Surf’s Up! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4+ R |
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Till Hell Freezes Over T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Virgo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walking with Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wierdo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.59065, -111.6495 |
| FA: | Taylor Martin |
| Page Views: | 77 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Martin on Mar 4, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Put up this route solo in 3 days in late February 2025. Hard aid line just left of “Devil Goat”. Route starts at the actual base of the cliff near a small pedestal, underneath a large left facing corner.
P1: climb featured rock to a lone bolt at 40ft. Mantle onto ledge and aid (A2) seam into main corner. 5.9 to “Devil Goat” 3 bolt belay. (65m)
p2: traverse straight left along unprotected foot ledge and pull around arete to gain a stance below right facing corner. Clip a bolt and aid up to ledge and 2 bolt belay. (A3)
P3: money pitch. Reach left and plug cams in pockets and crack before meeting back with the main corner. Aid straight up on beaks and pull small roof at the top of the corner. A few improbable moves get you back into the seam above. I used 26 beaks on this pitch. At the end of the seam, leave the comfort of the aiders and climb 40 ft up unprotected choss to the large ledge and a 2 bolt belay. (A4+)
P4: rope stretcher. Head left along ledge and climb wide crack to its top. Then scramble up knife ridge to a short chimney. Climb this to the top. (5.8)
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