PRINT: Rock Climb Hell Raiser, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Hell Raiser

5.10b, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 3 from 44 votes
FA: James Garrett and George Jamison, July 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Hellgate Cliffs > Main Hellgate

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Use the established trails Details

Description

Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of Till Hell Freezes Over. Independent of its neighbor, Hell Raiser is more of an approach pitch to Til Hell Freezes Over. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb Hell Raiser as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of Til Hell Freezes Over's second pitch.

P1 is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)
P2 follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)

Stop here or continue via one bolt to join Til Hell Freezes Over's 2nd pitch.

P3 traverses left past a bolt and then joins Till Hell Freezes Over. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to Till Hell Freezes Over(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.
P4 is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).
P5 is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)

Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.

Location

There is a fixed pin at eye level at the start. 50 feet to the right of Till Hell Freezes Over. P1 is the black slab with the obvious dihedral on the left.

Protection

The first pitch consists of three or four bolts mixed with small placements in the corner crack on the left. TCU's or C3's useful. Bring lots of draws or extendables. The last pitch has several bolts and takes intermediate placements up to .75" cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up Pitch 1 from the base. The route goes up and just left of the big roof.

third pitch

The lower sections of the 3rd pitch... great exposure

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

The first four pitches can be rapped with a 60m but make sure its a full 60! Did not see a pin at the start but there is a glue-in below the first bolt. Excellent route! Jul 5, 2012

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

Pitch 1-nothing special, just decent 5.8 dihedral climbing requiring a few trad pieces and 3-4 bolts. huge gravel ledge for belay.
2-best pitch of the climb, short bulge crux then fun big hold arete climbing. all bolts
3-traverse hard left, then back right with crux again over bulge with small sidepulls to a big pocket, then follow a small crack to anchors. bad feet. all bolts, short pitch
4-traverse left again, then up slabbier rock for a long ways. all bolts. weird hardware anchor. longest pitch.

didn't do last pitch, but can confirm 70m is good for rapping first 4 pitches. a fun route worth doing once. Jul 10, 2013

Alec L

5.10b

This should probably be re-categorized as the 2-pitch approach to Till Hell Freezes Over, to make the grade more obvious. It seems like the more obvious of the lines, also, especially with the way the raps are rigged. Crux (p3/11a) contains some excellent climbing. -noted Sep 8, 2014

Noah J
Desert, NM

Beware 3rd pitch bolt hangers. Non CE rated Russian rigs that have a tendency to deform. Should probably get replaced with better hardware. Aug 28, 2017

Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT

That 2nd pitch is so fun. Surprised people aren’t talking about it more. Jul 18, 2019

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

This route (and the 2 pitch original start to "Til Hell Freezes Over') was rebolted with stainless steel hardware by the SLCA (in consult with FA James G) in Sept. 2020, through pitch 5. While it is possible to extend pitch 5 past one more bolt and some adventure climbing through loose rock to an older, higher anchor, this final bit is not recommended unless walking off, as rappelling requires pulling two ropes through the many steep loose blocks that are perched over the Main Wall. Note that a rack of removable protection and slings is still needed as the original character of the climb was maintained with primarily 'hole for hole' replacements. Oct 2, 2020

Matty Coles
Salt Lake City

Very worthwhile 2 pitches! Stay left in the corner, after the crux, on the first pitch.

Cut over and finish up on the best parts of “Till Hell Freezes Over”, for one killer combo! (5.11) Aug 28, 2022