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Areas in East Hellgate

Clamshell, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Goat Gully Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Goatland Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Melting Mud Wall, The 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Melting Mud West 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 9
Elevation: 8,530 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.644 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 40,157 total, 415/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Dec 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Quite possibly THE destination in Little Cottonwood for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate will deliver.

Holding more pockets than a Levi's factory, East Hell Gate is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.

An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote or Hellish Inferno only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.

So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two, and a harness and give these routes a spin.
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Hellgate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket City
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pockets
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Repeat and Offend
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martinez Mind Melter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Bird Is the Word
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Los Crudos Melting Mud Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rat Bastards Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate Melting Mud West 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote Melting Mud Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions Melting Mud Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pocket City Goat Gully Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot Pockets Goatland Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Repeat and Offend Melting Mud Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness Melting Mud Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Martinez Mind Melter Melting Mud Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Bird Is the Word Melting Mud Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Brain Doner Melting Mud Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Public Nuisance Melting Mud Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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Photos

Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jason Shumaker   Salt Lake City, Utah
As you hike into the area I think it goes melting mud, melting mud west, goat gully, goatland wall and then the clamshell at the end. Jun 2, 2014

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