Elevation: 8,530 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.644 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,148 total · 459/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Dec 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Quite possibly THE destination in Little Cottonwood for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate will deliver.

Holding more pockets than a Levi's factory, East Hell Gate is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.

An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote or Hellish Inferno only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.

So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two, and a harness and give these routes a spin.

Getting There

Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall.

48 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East Hellgate Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at East Hellgate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 121
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Pocket City
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Repeat and Offend
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 81
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 39
Martinez Mind Melter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
The Bird Is the Word
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Cotton Mouth King
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Los Crudos Melting Mud Wall
 97
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rat Bastards Melting Mud Wall
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat Melting Mud Wall
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench Melting Mud Wall
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate Melting Mud West
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote Melting Mud Wall
 121
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions Melting Mud Wall
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pocket City Goat Gully Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Repeat and Offend Melting Mud Wall
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness Melting Mud Wall
 81
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Martinez Mind Melter Melting Mud Wall
 39
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Bird Is the Word Melting Mud Wall
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cotton Mouth King Melting Mud Wall
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner Melting Mud Wall
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Public Nuisance Melting Mud Wall
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Hellgate »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jason Shumaker   Salt Lake City, Utah
As you hike into the area I think it goes melting mud, melting mud west, goat gully, goatland wall and then the clamshell at the end. Jun 2, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Just wanted to remind folks of the serious rockfall potential here. My partner was hit in the back when some large, seemingly natural rockfall came down from above Melting Into Madness. We were lucky to walk away. Keep your helmets on and don't let your guard down! Sep 25, 2018