Elevation: 8,851 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.645 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,563 total · 104/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Also south facing, this East Hellgate wall is packed with routes at the base of the cliff which has been landscaped to accomodate a trail and belayers. Even belay bolts have been thoughtfully installed for some of these routes. The 5.9-5.11 sport climber just loves this wall. It will keep you grinning for hours. These routes have developed the reputation for having occasionally soft or forgiving ratings, great protection, and awesome pocket pulling aesthetics....characteristics that make them very popular for the SLC crowd who just want to get out of the heat or get out of the gym and have some fun!

Also, a 70m rope is frequently necessary on some of these modern lines. The Martinez classic SWARM OF BEERS (5.10d) is actually two pitches, but can be led in one with 22 draws!
The limestone is the same as found on the rest of the Hellgate Cliffs, only Martinez has spent countless hours cleaning it to perfection. It is very popular. Still some loose rock has inevitably escaped Gregorio's attention, so please climb with caution.

As with all Hellgate areas, Always Wear Your Helmet.

Getting There

Just down canyon from the Microwave station, hike up the good zigzags to the base of Far East Hellgate. Continue west, first passing Melting Mud Wall, Goat Gully Wall, Goatland Wall, and finally arriving at the Clamshell.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Goatland Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 36
Highway to Hell
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Agent Orange
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Hot Pockets
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Fire Water
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Hellboy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
Winking Owl
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Sworm of Beers
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
The Battle Continues
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Turbo Sphincter
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 15
Shock & Awe
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Highway to Hell
 36
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Agent Orange
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot Pockets
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fire Water
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hellboy
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Winking Owl
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sworm of Beers
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Battle Continues
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Turbo Sphincter
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shock & Awe
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Goatland Wall »

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