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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aug 12 08 Mike Bird Greg Martinez Laura Dewey
Page Views: 3,029 total · 26/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

half way

Location

left of sinistar

Protection

15 Bolts & chains 60 meter rope only tie knot in end of rope when lowering

Photos

J Saarela
Park City
  5.10c
J Saarela   Park City
  5.10c
One of my new favorites, likely mostly due to its length. Movement and holds were fun, very well-protected (especially on the crux roof where you can clip the lip from a nice ledge below the roof).

Rock quality must have really improved, as it seemed pretty solid. A few tiny loose pebbles on some of the ledges, but I would by no means call it "dirty."

I used a 70m rope (rappelled from center mark) with only a couple meters to spare on each strand. Tie those knots and watch the ends of your rope.

Will definitely be back for the RP Aug 13, 2015
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Really clean now. Aug 10, 2015
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Lol really 5.10R????? Jul 9, 2012
John Steiger
  5.10c
John Steiger  
  5.10c
Not to pile on, but this is very safe (gym-style bolting), and the rock is good by Hellgate standards – no reason not to get on it. For those disinclined to buy the IME photocopies, this is the far left line of bolts on the south face of Melting Mud, just left of Sinistar, and before the trail heads west and around the buttress bearing Devil’s Advocate. The rest of the climbs on Melting Mud can be located by using the MP sorter (L to R) and correlating the routes with the bolt lines. Jun 8, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
So many bolts ... so little time. If you think this is runout, then top roping must be super intense for you.

Not pumpy. The crux at the roof is pretty hard to read, but is the only move on the climb at the 10+ grade. The rest is about 10a.

Compliments to Grego.

60m is fine to get you all the way back to the belay. But do tie knots in the ends of your rope. May 22, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
An R rating Ryan? Whew, go climb further down canyon my friend. This climb is not R. It is the opposite of R. It is S, for "sewed" up. It has bolts every 5 feet. I skipped bolts on accident as I couldn't believe another one could be so close. Nevertheless, a brilliant climb. Apr 11, 2012
Alan Avedovech
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b/c
Alan Avedovech   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b/c
Long and Sweet! The length of this climb definitely the hardest part, then the roof is a little tricky too. The rock quality seemed all right for most of the climb with only 2 questionable sections (slippery and sandy) but you can work through them quickly. All in all this is one of the best climbs at East Hellgate. Oct 14, 2010
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
This is a really fun climb. The length of this climb is what makes the redpoint tricky. The crux is the move at the little roof. I strongly disagree with the comment about this being a clean climb. There is a LOT of loose rock. Luckily, it is mostly small stuff, but a helmet would be a great idea. More traffic will clean up this area, and make it even better.

This climb gets shady faster in the late summer afternoons, which can feel awesome.

--Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites. Aug 14, 2010
JimG
  5.10c/d
JimG  
  5.10c/d
Long, fun. Relatively clean and solid rock for a newer route. A 60M gets you up and down from a belay stance on that little ledge you scramble up to. It seems to me that a belay bolt up on that ledge, maybe between this route and Sinistar, would be handy. When climbing Sinistar I have belayed off the first bolt on that route, but that bolt looks like it has seen better days. Just a thought; anyone else like that idea? Sep 5, 2008