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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90110 ft
FA: 5/30/2012 Zack G, Laura Dewe, Greg M
Page Views: 507 total, 8/month
Shared By: chrisIerickson Erickson on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Good / long heavily bolted climb. Reasonably fun, but I don't know about the 10a rating. Felt more like 8 to me but I'm honoring the FA's rating.

Great route for someone breaking into the grade or leading.

Has bolts at 60 and 70 m.

Location

Currently 3rd from the right, up the face on the RHS.

Pick up the guide at IME ($10) -- the money goes to pay for all the bolts these guys are putting up.

Protection

60m: 14 bolts + chains
70m: 17 bolts + chains

Photos

Oscar Wheeler
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Oscar Wheeler   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Started the climb with a 60 m rope and realized I wasn't going to make it to the upper chains so went left to the rat bastard chains. Fun route some of the bolts sounded like they were on hollow rock, but no holds pulled while I was climbing.

Great climb for beginner leader in that there are bolts galore! Not once did it feel like a fall would be a whipper.

While there we did experience some rock fall around us so would definitely recommend a helmet. Jun 18, 2017
Adam Jensen
Taylorsville, UT
  5.9
Adam Jensen   Taylorsville, UT
  5.9
Led this route twice this week. Noticed some small loose rock, but not dangerous; and generally a fun, long route. Bolts are well placed, atypical for a canyon famous for run outs! Sep 5, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.8
The route is significantly cleaner than previous comments suggest. Still some cleaning to go, but it is a worthy and long climb. Jul 19, 2013
cdec
SLC, UT
  5.9
cdec   SLC, UT
  5.9
Climbed this in 2012 and again on 6/18/13 and thought it had clean up very nicely. Didn't find anything troubling at all. We were remarking how good we thought it was and was surprised to see the comments when I logged in to give it some stars.
Soft at 10a but long and good. Do it. Jun 18, 2013
Greg Martinez
SLC UTAH
  5.9
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
  5.9
1st Pitch is 5.9 go past 2 more Bolts past 1st anchor to 2nd Anchor 5.10a. Feb 28, 2013
LeMiz Israel  
 
Scariest climbing I have done in years. Bolts 4 - 6 are on a giant hollow flake. I know it's Hellgate and not the most bullet rock out there, but wtf? There are numerous scars from recently pulled off rocks. Between the vegetation and poor rock quality I would not recommend this route to anyone. Jul 15, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
This one felt easier than 10a to me, but still a fun route. I thought this was rat bastard (this route hadn't been posted yet) so I ended up being a couple draws short. There is still a good amount of loose rock on it, so be careful and always where a helmet at hellgate. Jul 5, 2012