Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2/26/05 Clark O, Greg M, Duncan M, Aaron W
Page Views: 1,668 total · 12/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Stay on the trails Details

Description

2 cruxes

Location

1st 4 bolts of Melting into the Madness then left for 5 more

Protection

9 bolts & anchors

Photos

tenesmus  
 
You can link up with the bolts of Bird is the Word on (10-15'?)runnout ground at harder .10. The climbing between is probably a little harder than the crux of either Bird or Melting into Madness but the cool part is that you can do the upper crux of Melting after this crux. (if I remember right - it was early morning and I've done it more than one way) Again, its kinda fun to push through to the top in one long pitch but if you do this you may want to back clean the anchors of Melting and maybe the first bolt or two of Bird for rope drag, depending on your second. Sep 13, 2007
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
one of my favorite leads on the wall. hellgate jug hauling! Dec 6, 2010