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Routes in Melting Mud West

Alcohol Rub Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil's Advocate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devils Advocate on Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rasta Pocket S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rise of Punk, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Total Chaos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiskey Wednesday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskey Weekend Jugs of Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wovoka S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 75 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips, NateWilliams, Tyler Maconville
Page Views: 2,824 total, 22/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Don't park on the dirt road on weekdays; parking is allowed only on weekends. Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Fun .10a warmup.

Location

Right at the top of the trail to the Far East Hellgate is a pine tree and an arete/flake with bolts on its left. This is the route.

Protection

9 bolts, chains.
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
It's worth doing once as long as long as you link it with Devil's Advocate on Crack, the 15 foot extension. The view from the top is pretty nice. Otherwise, I wouldn't say the actual climbing is anything special. Sep 16, 2016
mudgek  
There are 10 bolts plus the chains on Devil's Advocate, not 9. Also, there are new anchor bolts and chains replacing the suspect bolt commented on in June. The old anchor bolts are still there,sans chains. Aug 17, 2016
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
A fun gem for the area. A cool feature on the wall like that should always have a route on it. I'm curious why it doesn't go all the way up? Jul 22, 2013
tenesmus  
 
Only because of the bolted crack without asking the FA's permission from someone who complained ad nausea about an extension to one of his routes. Jul 19, 2013
Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jason Shumaker   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Clay: one star?

I liked this route; fun! Jul 18, 2013
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
Good route, the first pitch is soft even for the grades at the Hellgate. I think if the extension is added it brings the grade a little closer to .10a. Quality rock, fun jams at the top, a must do if you are at the wall regardless of who thinks what about the grade. Sep 21, 2012
tenesmus  
 
I was climbing this the other day and a guy told me to do the 2-bolt extension. So I was like, " Cool, Tyler must have added a few extra feet of climbing." But then I saw the bolts right next to the perfect handcrack and was pretty sure he wouldn't do that. I think the guy said his name was Greg and had the impression it was 'The Greg' who did all the Hellgate stuff and was kind of psyched to meet him. But my kids were kind of freaked out by all the cussing so we laid low. And then I thought, "Nah, that can't be that Greg because he got super upset when Sanderson extended one of his lines. He'd never do something like that because he'd know that would be uncool to Tyler. Maybe he worked it out with him and I need to STFU? Probably. Jul 6, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Best moderate climb at Hellgate! Awesome aesthetic line up an arete/pillar... made all the better for it being consistent and offers great views. Gave it 4 stars for the area.

Awesome place to take someone to get their first 9+/10a lead. May 23, 2012
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
5.8 ?

I am so impressed by you,
so is everyone else on here! Jul 20, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
five.eight- Jul 19, 2011
Alan Avedovech
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Alan Avedovech   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Awesome climb, awesome exposure! Aug 29, 2010
JimG
  5.10a
JimG  
  5.10a
This has cleaned up to be a very good route. Fun face climbing on good, featured rock. If you are looking for an easier 10a route up there I would recommend this. Great little belay spot right next to that big pine tree as an added bonus; take some beers, kick back and enjoy the Alta life. Sep 5, 2008