Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Melting Mud West

Alcohol Rub Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil's Advocate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devils Advocate on Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rasta Pocket S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rise of Punk, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Total Chaos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiskey Wednesday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskey Weekend Jugs of Joy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wovoka S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 105 ft
FA: Bobby Gray, GregMartinez, Laura Dewy Aug 16/08
Page Views: 265 total, 2/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Don't park on the dirt road on weekdays; parking is allowed only on weekends. Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

past anchor on devils advocate

Location

70 METER ROPE OR RAP OFF DEVILS ADVOCATE CHAINS

Protection

2 BOLTS PAST ANCHOR TO CHAINS

Photos

Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
CAUTION
Went up Devils Advocate and DA on Crack 8/8/17 and the anchor bolts for both are starting to look suspect. Spinning hangers on both anchors, DAOC anchors have about a 3/4 inch gap of bolt sticking out between the hanger and rock, rock showing cracks around the bolt hole. Bolts seem tight, but erosion is quickly deteriorating those anchors. Beware. Aug 10, 2017
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is only about a 15 foot extension of Devil's Advocate (2 extra bolts). Sep 16, 2016
John Martin2
Salt Lake City, UT
John Martin2   Salt Lake City, UT
The higher bolt on the second anchor seems to move a little, so use caution. However most of the weight seems to go on the lower bolt when rapping down. I made the rap with a stretchy 60m rope Sep 11, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Sweet route! With a 60m, belay on top and enjoy the view (be kind to the cool plant there). The rap will just barely get you back to base. Jul 22, 2011
Alan Avedovech
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a/b
Alan Avedovech   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a/b
Sweet top out put with exposure. Oct 14, 2010