Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desperado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handeater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Life by the Throat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life on your feet T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prowser T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Warren Marshall, Lenny Nelson 1964 FFA: George Lowe, Pete Gibbs 1974
Page Views: 20,183 total, 129/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


192 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The obvious dihedral. Some awkward climbing leads to a great hand crack which goes to fingers and finally to OW, which can be liebacked. The starting variation to the right is called Handeater.

Protection

Medium cams and stoppers. A #4 Camalot will fit in the OW at the top.
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10d
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10d
This route is not 80' tall...probably more like 50 or 60.

Rack: Doubles .75-3 plus Single #4. I also brought singles .3-.5 for the bottom wide section. Oct 22, 2015
jccat
On the Road
jccat   On the Road
Careful on the approach / descent - Went up there last night and there was a pretty big rattler on the trail camouflaged by a pile of twigs when we were coming down. Aug 18, 2015
Bart Kensinger
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Bart Kensinger   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Such a great climb, and it makes you bring a big bag of tricks. One of my favorite single pitches anywhere to date. Aug 16, 2015
choppinBolts  
 
The splitter to the right (Handeater) is super awesome, great hand crack. Oct 26, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10+
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10+
I have probably gone up this route literally 100+ times and feel like it's best to "run out" the end. Below the offwidth crux are two pods right above each other that take a red #1 Camelot C4 (green #6 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam) and a blue #.3 C4 (yellow #2 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam). One or both of those will protect a clean and safe fall, so just power through the brief crux! :) Jun 19, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10d
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10d
Hard and varried! Wish I could have gotten it clean but it demands endurance. Managed to fit a #4 at the lower portion of the OW and then a #5 at the very top, on which I fell and weighted numerous times. Definitely worth doing and trying again for the clean ascent. Jun 9, 2012
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Awesome line. Gear is all there. Tenesmus is right - solid blue TCU placement as well as the obvious #4 camalot to protect the exit moves. Jul 25, 2011
Beautiful view with morning cool granite crack for my very first Utah climb! Not one scratch the holds were so sweet Jun 12, 2011
What gear placements? This crack is meant for top-roping.

"This is a short route, maybe 5.6 but very runout. Definitely meant for TRing." Mar 28, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The first 1/3 or so is much like climbing an off-width, the middle 1/3 consists of fantastic jams in a crack that eats pro (BD 1-3 for me), and the final 1/3 can be done by laying it back and cruising the upper flare. I carried the #4 but didn't use it. Aug 28, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10d
As good as it gets for hand crack climbing. Place a good cam and punch through the upper crux to the flare and get your feet set on the tiny nobs (I can vouch for a safe fall here - I have popped off this move a number of times). The exit is an interesting lie-off mantle unless you grovel into the flare. This is a great route to train for a big wall in a day - lead it over and over all day long and you will get in good shape. Jun 28, 2010
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Its steeper than it looks. The top is a little scary but super fun once its over. A .75 protected right under the OW and caught my fall nicely. Don't even try to put in any pro up top, it will just frog you. Apr 12, 2010
Moonfri
 
Moonfri  
 
A hard 10d; sweet pro down low but very pumpy up top and nerve racking. It'll be a while before I get this redpoint... ;) Jan 20, 2010
T_jones
Salt Lake
 
T_jones   Salt Lake
 
Got to climb this today in beautiful 60 degree weather...so sick! Mar 10, 2008
Talia
SLC, UT
Talia   SLC, UT
Can we also say beached whale..? IM sure there is a very stylish way to pop out of the top but for me it was a nice hook of the foot and a hoist of the body. Not so pretty but a very fun route none the less. Jun 27, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.11
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.11
I made it to the top too! What a great feeling. Man I need to work on my jamming technique but what a great route. Jan 31, 2007
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
 
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
 
Do you know what "nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by bongeater.

One day I will send this clean but at least I made it to the top. LOVES IT Sep 19, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10d
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10d
There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top. Aug 31, 2006
tenesmus  
 
Nathan - a blue tcu fits nicely to the left of that flake in the back of the offwidth. It holds whippers from large climbers. Feb 12, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10d
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10d
sweet jammin. try lie-backing the hand eater for fun. Jan 25, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10d
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10d
Can we say classic. Great climbing on great rock with great gear. This climb deserves to be climbed every year. Hell, every week. Cams are nice, but not neccesary Leave that large cam at home, and just run out the finish. It would protect the finish, but it also is very pumpy to place. I found it easier to deal with the 20 footer possibility instead. Pick your tactics on this finish though, as has been said, either an offwidth (bloody knee jam) or a pumpy lieback (my choice). May 22, 2005