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Routes in Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desperado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handeater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Life by the Throat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life on your feet T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prowser T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ben Folsom, Lance Bateman March 3, 2006
Page Views: 2,870 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is on the left side of the Bong Eater Buttress just right of "Desperado" the 5.8 chimney. Start by soloing up a short chimney to the ledge with trees below the route. Climb the first part of Desperado, at a good stance for placing gear, move up and right into the lieback flake. The flake becomes more strenuous with each move. When the flake runs out, thin face climbing on micro edges continues to the anchors. Three bolts protect the upper part of this pitch. The climb finishes at a two bolt belay.

Protection

A set of cams, a large cam or two for the Desperado start (I used old style #5 camalots, which may be the new #6). Small to medium nuts useful. Quickdraws.

Photos

Ben Folsom  
 
I got on this thing again after more than 5 years since the FA (I can't believe its been that long). Kind of a lot of climbing packed into a short little section. If you like thin face mixed with power, this is a great route on good rock. The crux moves are all basically bringing your feet up to set up for the next move. Go get on this thing, it is a good winter route! Nov 24, 2011
again, nice work!!! Oct 19, 2008
I was waiting at the park-n-ride for my partner when you were drilling that route. I was hoping you would post it. Thanks. Mar 14, 2006