| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5747, -111.7734 |
| FA: | Ben Folsom, Lance Bateman March 3, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 4,266 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Mar 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route is on the left side of the Bong Eater Buttress just right of "Desperado" the 5.8 chimney. Start by soloing up a short chimney to the ledge with trees below the route. Climb the first part of Desperado, at a good stance for placing gear, move up and right into the lieback flake. The flake becomes more strenuous with each move. When the flake runs out, thin face climbing on micro edges continues to the anchors. Three bolts protect the upper part of this pitch. The climb finishes at a two bolt belay.




3 Comments