Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 40.5747, -111.7734
FA: Ben Folsom, Lance Bateman March 3, 2006
Page Views: 4,266 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route is on the left side of the Bong Eater Buttress just right of "Desperado" the 5.8 chimney. Start by soloing up a short chimney to the ledge with trees below the route. Climb the first part of Desperado, at a good stance for placing gear, move up and right into the lieback flake. The flake becomes more strenuous with each move. When the flake runs out, thin face climbing on micro edges continues to the anchors. Three bolts protect the upper part of this pitch. The climb finishes at a two bolt belay.

Protection Suggest change

A set of cams, a large cam or two for the Desperado start (I used old style #5 camalots, which may be the new #6). Small to medium nuts useful. Quickdraws.

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