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Routes in Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Desperado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Handeater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Life by the Throat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life on your feet T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prowser T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Ward and Dave Houser, FFA Drew Bedford 1988
Page Views: 3,101 total, 21/month
Shared By: Mark Gillis on Dec 21, 2005 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the thin crack right up the prow of bongeater buttress with the bolt near the top. The route officially starts on the sloping ledge at the bottom of bongeater and goes around the corner and up the overhanging crack. The crack is expanding at the bottom and TCUs, nuts and aliens work well. The middle part eats nuts. The top part, past an old knifeblade driven up and in the crack takes a bit more creativity and is A2. A stretch from the last pin placement (short people may have to topstep) and you clip in to a new large bolt. One more creative move and then an easy mantle to the shelves which hold 3 bolts and rap chains. We did not do it free- at 5.12. It was a great aid route however and we did an additional variation at the bottom- starting directly below the crack with two thin pins, then an exciting hand traverse protected by a looped chickenhead. If you do it this way I would rate it 5.7 A2 Despite its short length it is very vertical. The route is like climbing a skyscraper.You can just see the very beginning of the route at the corner of the photo, it is just around to the right. We will try to get some better photos.

Protection

We use wired nuts from large to small peanuts. Aliens also useful and a blue TCU. The consensus rack would include Singles 0 TCU to 0.75, Stoppers, and RPs. Two fixed pins currently present, but route protects without them. One bolt for the direct aid finish.

Photos

kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
What a great route with an improbable traversing finish at the top. Holds are in good shape. Apr 23, 2017
Andy Jacobsen
  5.12b
Andy Jacobsen  
  5.12b
Great route that deserves more attention IMO. Stunning line on a steep(for lcc) arete. Fun liebacking and arete slapping leads to awesome slab moves. I have yet to figure out the moves for the direct finish!? But as Ben said above the slab for the original free line is in good shape. For a bit more excitement start by climbing the right-facing dihedral down and slightly left of the line instead of traversing in from the right. The moves transitioning from the right-facing dihedral to the crack that is Prowser are funky and awesome. Mar 3, 2014
Ben Folsom
  5.12b
Ben Folsom  
  5.12b
The leftward traverse at the top is actually in pretty good shape. The holds seem good if you have the right sequence figured out.
The direct finish feels desperate, nice work on that to those involved! Dec 11, 2011
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
This climb is really awesome. I love the description of it as climbing a skyscraper- so true. It takes perfectly adequate gear the whole way. Just bring small and micro nuts. I placed a couple of cams as well. The two knife blades up high are fine, totally solid. The original free route departs from a stance on the chicken head on the arete and traverses left and then up the face. Prepare for very thin micro chips that munch your tips-likely V5/V6. The route can go direct up the prow as well,at 5.13a, I believe Peter Vintinov got the first ascest. If done direct up the arete at the top the route gets 3 stars from me! The original left traverse finish only gets 2. Also, after talking with the first ascensionist, it seems clear some holds have broke at the crux- I think 12c is fair by LCC standards. Mar 21, 2008
Ben Folsom
  5.12b
Ben Folsom  
  5.12b
Please don't nail on this route. It is a great free route, and as an aid route can easily be done clean with thin wires. Mar 14, 2006