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Routes in Bongeater Buttress
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Bongeater T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desperado T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Handeater T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Life by the Throat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Life on your feet T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Prowser T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mark Ward and Dave Houser, FFA Drew Bedford 1988 |
| Page Views: | 5,770 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Gillis on Dec 21, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the thin crack right up the prow of bongeater buttress with the bolt near the top. The route officially starts on the sloping ledge at the bottom of bongeater and goes around the corner and up the overhanging crack. The crack is expanding at the bottom and TCUs, nuts and aliens work well. The middle part eats nuts. The top part, past an old knifeblade driven up and in the crack takes a bit more creativity and is A2. A stretch from the last pin placement (short people may have to topstep) and you clip in to a new large bolt. One more creative move and then an easy mantle to the shelves which hold 3 bolts and rap chains. We did not do it free- at 5.12. It was a great aid route however and we did an additional variation at the bottom- starting directly below the crack with two thin pins, then an exciting hand traverse protected by a looped chickenhead. If you do it this way I would rate it 5.7 A2 Despite its short length it is very vertical. The route is like climbing a skyscraper.You can just see the very beginning of the route at the corner of the photo, it is just around to the right. We will try to get some better photos.
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