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Areas in Albion Basin

Cecret Lake 12 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Cosmic Web Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Devil's Castle 10 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 14
Devil's Tongue 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Tacos Diablos Boulder 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 19
Stinky Stash
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 26
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
The Kind
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
POLITRICS
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 119
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 39
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Cardinal Sin
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 55
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 30
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 9
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
UnGoverenable Force
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stinky Stash Cecret Lake > Stinky Stash Wall
 19
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
POLITRICS Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 46
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle
 119
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 39
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardinal Sin Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle
 38
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 55
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle
 30
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle
 9
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 26
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
UnGoverenable Force Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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