Elevation: 9,313 ft
GPS: 40.578, -111.619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 125,198 total · 789/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

72 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Albion Basin Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 47
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
The Kind
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Poon Limp or Eat Crust
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
POLITRICS
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 148
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 37
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 23
Skunk Weed
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 56
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Cardinal Sin
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 66
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 17
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 22
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Poon Limp or Eat Crust Devil's Castle
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
POLITRICS Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 51
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle
 148
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 37
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Skunk Weed Cecret Lake > Stinky Stash Wall
 23
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle
 56
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Cardinal Sin Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 40
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 66
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle
 17
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 35
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder
 22
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Albion Basin »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos