All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Albion Basin Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Albion Basin

Cecret Lake 12 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47

Cosmic Web Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Devil's Castle 11 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 17

Devil's Tongue 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

Tacos Diablos Boulder 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Elevation:	9,313 ft
GPS:	40.57792, -111.6194 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	184,600 total · 937/month
Shared By:	Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire Wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination.

Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed.

Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground.

With the exception of the Devils Castle routes (listed under Devils Castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on Devils Castle.

Getting There

Drive up Little Cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, Little Cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below Devils Castle.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 60 ● Portable Darkness Trad, Alpine 6 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 66 ● The Kind Sport Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 50 ● The Virus Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 61 ● POLITRICS Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 178 ● Black Streak Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 45 ● Cough Your Off Sport Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 74 ● Horns Of Satan Trad, Alpine 8 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 44 ● Cardinal Sin Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 84 ● Girls on Film Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 53 ● Junk Head Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 68 ● Anti Hero's Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 76 ● Shadow of the Blade Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Devil's Castle
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 42 ● Ride the Lightning Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 45 ● Toxic Narcotic Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 27 ● Tacos Diablos Sport Tacos Diablos Boulder