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Areas in Albion Basin

Cecret Lake 12 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Cosmic Web Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Devil's Castle 10 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 14
Devil's Tongue 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Tacos Diablos Boulder 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 9,313 ft
GPS: 40.578, -111.619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 86,280 total · 627/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 38
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
The Kind
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Bush Bullshit
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Poon Limp or Eat Crust
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
POLITRICS
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 128
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 34
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Cardinal Sin
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 62
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 13
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 31
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bush Bullshit Devil's Castle
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Poon Limp or Eat Crust Devil's Castle
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
POLITRICS Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 50
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle
 128
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 34
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle
 47
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Cardinal Sin Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 36
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 62
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle
 13
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 31
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Albion Basin »

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Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
The town of Alta is no longer offering a shuttle service.

There is currently a $6 fee to "access" the road from Alta to the Catherine's parking lot and Cecret Lake parking lot. The "access" fee does not guarantee parking, although the guy at the booth has some insight as to parking spot availability.

Alternatively, one can take a $10/person chairlift ride from Alta up the Sunnyside lift. Aug 11, 2018

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