All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Albion Basin Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Albion Basin

Catherine's Pass 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Cecret Lake 12 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47

Cosmic Web Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Devil's Castle 13 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 19 / 19

Devil's Castle ice, mixed & drytool 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6 / 6

Devil's Tongue 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

Tacos Diablos Boulder 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	9,313 ft	2,839 m
GPS:	40.57792, -111.6194 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	185,537 total · 830/month
Shared By:	Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire Wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination.

Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed.

Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground.

With the exception of the Devils Castle routes (listed under Devils Castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on Devils Castle.

Getting There

Drive up Little Cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, Little Cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below Devils Castle.

83 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Albion Basin Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 75 ● Portable Darkness Trad, Alpine 6 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 69 ● The Kind Sport Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 53 ● The Virus Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 68 ● POLITRICS Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 196 ● Black Streak Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 48 ● Cough Your Off Sport Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 84 ● Horns Of Satan Trad, Alpine 8 pitches Devil's Castle
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 93 ● Girls on Film Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 58 ● Junk Head Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 77 ● Anti Hero's Sport Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 88 ● Shadow of the Blade Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Devil's Castle
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 26 ● Gothic Pillar Trad, Alpine 6 pitches Devil's Castle
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 45 ● Ride the Lightning Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 46 ● Toxic Narcotic Sport Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 30 ● Tacos Diablos Sport Tacos Diablos Boulder