Elevation: 9,313 ft
GPS: 40.578, -111.619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 151,111 total · 887/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Rezin Heads
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 49
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 58
The Kind
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
POLITRICS
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 166
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 41
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Cardinal Sin
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 61
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 20
Evil Eye
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 21
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 41
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 25
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rezin Heads Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 58
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
POLITRICS Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 54
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle
 166
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall
 41
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle
 65
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Cardinal Sin Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 43
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 74
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle
 61
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Evil Eye Devil's Castle
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle
 21
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall
 41
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder
 25
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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