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Areas in Albion Basin

Cecret Lake 12 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Cosmic Web Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Devil's Castle 10 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 14
Devil's Tongue 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Tacos Diablos Boulder 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 9,313 ft
GPS: 40.578, -111.619 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 67,962 total, 539/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Jul 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.
Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stinky Stash
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Kind
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cough Your Off
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Girls on Film
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anti Hero's
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Evil Eye
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Narcotic
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
UnGoverenable Force
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tacos Diablos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stinky Stash Cecret Lake > Stinky Stash Wall 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Portable Darkness Devil's Castle 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Kind Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Streak Devil's Castle 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cough Your Off Cecret Lake > Green Stash Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardinal Sin Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Horns Of Satan Devil's Castle 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Girls on Film Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anti Hero's Cecret Lake > Creekside Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shadow of the Blade Devil's Castle 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Evil Eye Devil's Castle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Pillar Devil's Castle 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Toxic Narcotic Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
UnGoverenable Force Cecret Lake > Whipper Wall 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Tacos Diablos Tacos Diablos Boulder 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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