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Routes in Creekside Wall

Anti Hero's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls on Film S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Junk Head S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
POLITRICS S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riot In The City S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rise and Revolt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Undersir Abules, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,978 total, 16/month
Shared By: Abandoned User on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

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Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
I really feel like the description of this climb does it zero justice, as this is my favorite route on Creekside Wall, and this area is packed with fun climbs overall. So I'm going to try to do it some...
This climb is exciting because it can be climbed via two different starts - the left side utilizing fins and lay-backs to thin moves below the roof, which certainly pushes it to 5.10c or harder, or the right side face start which to me seems softer but is still heady on lead. The most important part is both starts are super fun, but the moves through the crux are the real gem. Use a long draw on the first bolt for zero rope drag.
The quartzite starts off appearing much more like sandstone at the bottom, forming gritty holes and shelves, but quickly forms into flakes and horns after the second bolt.
Now is where the fun really begins!
Utilize horns and corners, then the large horizontal crack to get a foot up at the crux! Exhilarating movement as you overcome the exposure above the creek and reach for the jugs! The intensity lessens substantially at this point, but is still worth topping out for the view alone.
Sometimes the top gets a layer of lichen on the holds, but it really doesn't matter as the holds are large and the angle is less aggressive. Go for it! Don't let a little plant matter...matter. Aug 2, 2017
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
Nice route. It must have cleaned up a lot since the description was written. The route wasn't mossy and rap rings were well located with no rope drag. Aug 5, 2012
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Concur that standard length qd's work fine. Partner missed the last bolt and went to anchor on Politricks, so, I guess if you didn't like the top of the route, that'd be an option too. Fun climb! Jul 29, 2007