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Devil's Castle Rock Climbing
Routes in Devil's Castle
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5 R |
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Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 10,000 ft | 3,048 m |
| GPS: |
40.56562, -111.61357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 64,688 total · 284/month | |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The North Face of Devil's Castle is within the Alta Ski Area boundary and within a 20-30 minute approach hike from the Albion Basin Campground. Spring to late summer snow forms a bergschrund type barrier to the beginning of the routes which adds to the alpine flavor. Take more clothes and weather protection than you think....even if valley temperatures are really hot! Prone to late afternoon thundershowers. Wear a helmet for all climbing here. The rock is limestone and considered chossy by some people, so if you are a sport climber never accustomed to touching possible loose rock...go elsewhere. This is great climbing in a beautiful setting and in recent times often crowded. Always walk off, though BLACK STREAK is equipped for rappel with one 70m rope in the event of an emergency.
Getting There
Drive as far up Little Cottonwood Canyon as possible. Continue on the dirt road (when open) up to the Albion Basin Campground. Ice axes and big boots may be helpful for early season approaches that should not require more than 30 minutes. A fine trail leads out of campsite #13 which passes some private homes. If making reservations for camping, this campsite gives you awesome views and the closest approach to the Castle. Respect these properties and stay on the trail and avoid passing through too close to the homes. Above trail and tree line, the approach is obvious.
Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Castle
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (10)
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