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Devil's Castle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Devil's Castle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13
	Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Enemy at the Gate T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI3+ M5 Steep Snow R
	Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	10,000 ft	3,048 m
GPS:	40.56562, -111.61357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	64,948 total · 273/month
Shared By:	James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Drew Brodhead, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The North Face of Devil's Castle is within the Alta Ski Area boundary and within a 20-30 minute approach hike from the Albion Basin Campground. Spring to late summer snow forms a bergschrund type barrier to the beginning of the routes which adds to the alpine flavor. Take more clothes and weather protection than you think....even if valley temperatures are really hot! Prone to late afternoon thundershowers. Wear a helmet for all climbing here. The rock is limestone and considered chossy by some people, so if you are a sport climber never accustomed to touching possible loose rock...go elsewhere. This is great climbing in a beautiful setting and in recent times often crowded. Always walk off, though BLACK STREAK is equipped for rappel with one 70m rope in the event of an emergency.

Getting There

Drive as far up Little Cottonwood Canyon as possible. Continue on the dirt road (when open) up to the Albion Basin Campground. Ice axes and big boots may be helpful for early season approaches that should not require more than 30 minutes. A fine trail leads out of campsite #13 which passes some private homes. If making reservations for camping, this campsite gives you awesome views and the closest approach to the Castle. Respect these properties and stay on the trail and avoid passing through too close to the homes. Above trail and tree line, the approach is obvious.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 75 ● Portable Darkness Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI3+ M5 Steep Snow R 5 ● North Face Chimney Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Bush Bullshit Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● Poon Limp or Eat Crust Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 196 ● Black Streak Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 84 ● Horns Of Satan Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 88 ● Shadow of the Blade Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 26 ● Evil Eye Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 17 ● Gothic Miller Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 26 ● Gothic Pillar Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Devil's Lettuce Sport, Alpine 2 pitches