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Elevation: 10,000 ft 3,048 m
GPS: 40.56562, -111.61357
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,511 total · 295/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The North Face of Devil's Castle is within the Alta Ski Area boundary and within a 20-30 minute approach hike from the Albion Basin Campground. Spring to late summer snow forms a bergschrund type barrier to the beginning of the routes which adds to the alpine flavor. Take more clothes and weather protection than you think....even if valley temperatures are really hot! Prone to late afternoon thundershowers. Wear a helmet for all climbing here. The rock is limestone and considered chossy by some people, so if you are a sport climber never accustomed to touching possible loose rock...go elsewhere. This is great climbing in a beautiful setting and in recent times often crowded. Always walk off, though BLACK STREAK is equipped for rappel with one 70m rope in the event of an emergency. 

Getting There Suggest change

Drive as far up Little Cottonwood Canyon as possible. Continue on the dirt road (when open) up to the Albion Basin Campground. Ice axes and big boots may be helpful for early season approaches that should not require more than 30 minutes. A fine trail leads out of campsite #13 which passes some private homes. If making reservations for camping, this campsite gives you awesome views and the closest approach to the Castle. Respect these properties and stay on the trail and avoid passing through too close to the homes. Above trail and tree line, the approach is obvious.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Devil's Castle Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 61
Portable Darkness
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5 R
 5
North Face Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Bush Bullshit
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Poon Limp or Eat Crust
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 179
Black Streak
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
Horns Of Satan
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Shadow of the Blade
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 25
Evil Eye
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Gothic Miller
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 24
Gothic Pillar
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Devil's Lettuce
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Portable Darkness
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
North Face Chimney
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a M5 R Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Bush Bullshit
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Poon Limp or Eat Crust
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Black Streak
 179
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Horns Of Satan
 74
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Shadow of the Blade
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Evil Eye
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gothic Miller
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Gothic Pillar
 24
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Devil's Lettuce
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Castle »

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