Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Alan Sanderson & Brian Smoot, Aug. 2009|
|Page Views:||1,266 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Aug 15, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1 - climb a short wide crack to a loose sloping ledge. We belayed on the right, behind a large detached flake.
Pitch 2 - Ascend a short steep, shallow crack 8' left of the belay to a ramp. Move left and up to ledges at the base of the main crack. (5.10 R) These 2 pitches can easily be done as one.
Pitch 3 - Ascend the steep chimney/offwidth to the top (5.9 or 5.10)... The last section overhangs, making this pitch one of the wildest on the Castle.
We climbed this route in traditional ground up style. There is definitely a Canadian Rockies feel here! No bolts were placed.