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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alan Sanderson & Brian Smoot, Aug. 2009
Page Views: 805 total, 8/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 15, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Hellevator Shaft ascends the prominent offwidth/chimney system when viewed from the west.

Pitch 1 - climb a short wide crack to a loose sloping ledge. We belayed on the right, behind a large detached flake.

Pitch 2 - Ascend a short steep, shallow crack 8' left of the belay to a ramp. Move left and up to ledges at the base of the main crack. (5.10 R) These 2 pitches can easily be done as one.

Pitch 3 - Ascend the steep chimney/offwidth to the top (5.9 or 5.10)... The last section overhangs, making this pitch one of the wildest on the Castle.

We climbed this route in traditional ground up style. There is definitely a Canadian Rockies feel here! No bolts were placed.

Location

West end of the Castle. Start at the base of an offwidth crack...see photo

Protection

1 set of nuts, 2 sets of cams up to 5", plus one 6" piece. A few pins may be useful, but they're not mandatory.

Photos

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