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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian Smoot, Jonathon Smoot, and Glen Henshaw, September 2001
Page Views: 2,504 total, 18/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Begin at lowest point of buttress.
Pitch #1: Follow 5 bolts past a tricky roof to a ledge and traverse right (5.9) to the belay or climb the crack to the right (5.7) of the first 3 bolts.
Pitch #2: Climb past a fixed piton through two more roofs and about 4 bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10, 170'.
Pitch #3: Climb straight up great face climbing passing about 6 bolts to the the midway ledge. 5.10d or 5.11a.
Pitch #4: Scramble for about 160 feet up low angle looseness. 5.5.
Pitch #5: Head toward the areteand climb it until the huge ledge which shares the final pitch of Black Streak 100 feet to the left. 5.8.
Pitch #6: From the belay, traverse 40' to the left on the ledge and head up a steep short wall. The first bolt was marked with red tape to identify the route, but this may be gone. Belay at the first ledge encountered. 5.9.
Pitch #7: A short section of 5.11a face leads to a wonderful 5.6 handcrack to the top of the wall. 5.11a.

Location

This route is located about 120' to the right of Black Streak. Either rappel Black Streak with one 60m rope or walk off.

Protection

1 each #0-#3 microcams
2 each #.50-#1 Camalots
1 each #2-#3.5 Camalots
QDs and many shoulder length runners
Climbed Evil. 7-29-12, Was evil for sure. Loose rock...worst of all Castle routes. P-2 poorly protected, hard to find belay last 40 feet easy but with loose rock and poor pro, nerve wracking.....Several pins were loose. Death boulders teetering as we speak. Be careful on this one, if you find a reason you need to climb it. Ill be on the other routes on the Castle for sure. Jul 30, 2012
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10d PG13
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10d PG13
My rack recommendations are blue #1 TCU up through #3 camalot. Only double we used all day was in the .5 camalot range (and we had a #3 TCU in that size). No nuts used.

Great route! I thought the route finding wasn't too bad. Still some loose rock. I'd call any long route on DC PG or R rated for sure. Head's up!

I'll toss in my "obl" rating: 5.10b A0. Aug 15, 2010
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Glad you liked it Alexi. The reason for the 30' pitch near the top is because I'm a sucker for cool belay ledges...I couldn't resist. Normally I'm against tagging a bolt but this route needs it, as I once...uh...a...well...um...got temporally lost on a subsequent ascent. Aug 9, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d PG13
Tied for best on the wall IMO (with Shadow), sustained and clean. The choss ledge is a lot better than on Gothic Pillar with flat dirt spots, short steep sections and barely any looseness. The moderate sections are runout enough to keep you on your toes, the hard bits protect well.
Definitely link the last 2 pitches together as the second to last is only 30' long.
You might be able to link P1 and P2 with a 70m although your 2nd may need to get to the 1st bolt (I had a 60m and a misprint on my topo led to this discovery).
Gear-wise, no nuts, no doubles and cams from .4 to #2 was spot on. You can place larger and smaller pieces if you have them. I clipped everything long, rope drag was never an issue and I don't think I used more than 10 runners/draws per pitch.
Lastly, 10b/c is a bit sandbagged. The crux section felt 10d/11a when climbed straight on, it's thin, a bit sequential and pumpy. Bit easier but more sustained than the crux of Shadow which settled at 10d. If you wander out left and come back to clip the bolts it might be mid-10.

Oh and if anyone goes up there it would be nice to bring a bit of skinny red webbing to mark the bolts as most of Brian's stuff is faded and battered. I found bits of it here and there and barely spotted some inobvious bolts that used to be marked. Aug 9, 2010
Moonfri
  5.10b/c PG13
Moonfri  
  5.10b/c PG13
Did this today, the first two pitches and last pitch were pretty sweet. A lot of big loose rock, not nearly as clean as black streak. Don't rap this one, walk off to the west. Most pitches are lead with just qd's. Jul 27, 2009
AGFW
Durango, CO
AGFW   Durango, CO
more like 10+ Rack recs here are a bit overkill, really only need a handful of cams from .5 inch up to 2 inch. Plenty of bolts and pins. Expect looseness, great topout! Jul 25, 2009
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Good on ya Tyler. Evil Eye is a bit sportier and requires more route finding than the other Castle routes. That said, it does have the best top out on the mountain. Aug 5, 2007