Avg: 2.4 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Brian Smoot, Jonathon Smoot, and Glen Henshaw, September 2001|
|Page Views:||3,284 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch #1: Follow 5 bolts past a tricky roof to a ledge and traverse right (5.9) to the belay or climb the crack to the right (5.7) of the first 3 bolts.
Pitch #2: Climb past a fixed piton through two more roofs and about 4 bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10, 170'.
Pitch #3: Climb straight up great face climbing passing about 6 bolts to the the midway ledge. 5.10d or 5.11a.
Pitch #4: Scramble for about 160 feet up low angle looseness. 5.5.
Pitch #5: Head toward the areteand climb it until the huge ledge which shares the final pitch of Black Streak 100 feet to the left. 5.8.
Pitch #6: From the belay, traverse 40' to the left on the ledge and head up a steep short wall. The first bolt was marked with red tape to identify the route, but this may be gone. Belay at the first ledge encountered. 5.9.
Pitch #7: A short section of 5.11a face leads to a wonderful 5.6 handcrack to the top of the wall. 5.11a.