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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot & Kim Miller
Page Views: 1,612 total, 12/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a more strenuous version of the first 2 pitches of Gothic Pillar. The 2nd lead is the steepest pitch on Devil's Castle...great, exposed pitch.

Location

Begin about 40' left of Gothic Pillar. Climb straight up 90' to a small stance (5.9). Pitch 2, make a short traverse right. Ascend the steep face above (5.11a) to a narrow ledge at the midway slabs. Rap here (60M)or continue up the Gothic pillar.

Protection

Bring Just Draws and runners. All fixed pro and belays.

Photos

Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
I think both pitches on this are great. I have done it a few times, and there is only one comment on it, so I thought I would chime in. Anyway, the first pitch is really fun "solid" rock. The second pitch is the "money" pitch and is a little spooky, but adds character to the pitch. Hard move off the belay, then big jugs out a series of roofs. Not many places you get that kind of exposure around here!!! FYI we did the first two pitches of Gothic Miller, lowered down to the top of the first pitch of Gothic Pillar and did that to the top which adds another great pitch... Aug 18, 2013
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Great first pitch - still some loose stuff here and there (like most routes on the Castle) the second pitch though very well protected is a bit scary as the rock appears to be solid but going through a series roofs with rock like this - Yikes. Aug 5, 2007