Avg: 3 from 169 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 1986. Bolt Equipped with Johannis Sweeley 1992. First Winter Ascent: Quino Gonzales and Alan Rousseau, Feb. 2014|
|Page Views:||22,588 total · 122/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch #1: Face (~9 bolts) climb up the black water streak to a ledge and three bolt anchor. This was earlier protected by the gear friendly horizontals. 5.10a, 130'.
Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge (where an original piton from the FA with a long sling helps protect the second). Now trend right up easy ground to bolted terrain through interesting pocketed overlaps and reach a bolt chained anchor. 5.10b, 100'.
Pitch #3: Pass two bolts and climb the left facing dihedral to the midway ledge. Be careful with the scree on the ledge. 5.8, 50'.
Pitch #4: Climb the low angle ramp passing a rap anchor at 100' and several bolts to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.4, 210'.
Pitch #5: Follow the bolts through a roof slightly to the right of the belay, then back left up hard pocketed face moves to the belay. Beware of possible loose scree at the belay. 5.9/10a, 100'.
Pitch #6: A fixed rope has been installed to protect the leader passing this unstable scree section to the beginning of the final pitch which starts 40 feet to the right on a huge ledge. 4th class, 40'. 2m to the right of this lone bolt at the end of the fixed line on the huge ledge is the beginning of the final 5.9, 5.6R pitch of Black Streak.
Pitch #7: Start in the alcove to right of the end of the fixed rope/bolt or climb directly to the first bolt. Just past the third bolt find a good #2 Camalot horizontal placement. From here, climb straight up toward the left edge of the huge dark roofs. The 4th bolt is often missed, but it is there. A faded sling (not girth hitched) left tied to the bolt long marked the spot, but was removed. Some of the pitons have been slung also for this reason to make them easier to find. The fun pocketed final moves won't feel quite so far away if you can clip this 4th bolt. 5.7R or 5.9 Direct Start,100'.
Scramble around to the right to the ridge line.
After approaching Devil's Castle from below, look for the obvious Black Water Streak to the right of the Little Apron....a popular ski descent in winter. To locate the route, refer to Brian Smoot's excellent overview photo/topo (on MP.com) of the numerous DC lines now available.
With the huge increase in traffic on this route/face in recent years, Rappelling is strongly discouraged and only should be done as a “no other option” in the event of an emergency. If climbers are below or inclement weather threatens, please do not rappel, but walk off to the West down a well worn trail.
The Black Streak rappels (in the event of emergency only) afford the easiest rappel down from all the North Face of Devil's Castle routes.