Avg: 2.9 from 66 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||James Garrett (Lower Wall) and Brian Smoot (Upper Wall), July 2004|
|Page Views:||9,879 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Young (and old!) rockers often times flash the "horns of satan" hand sign with the index and baby fingers extended. Can't miss it at rock concerts! A similar shaped feature clearly demarcates the crux lower pitches of Horns Of Satan. Look for a roof that caps a U shaped face with an arete above it.
Pitch #1: Climb past some low level looseness and 3 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.6.
Pitch #2: Follow bolts to a great ledge under a wild looking roof. Better Rock! 5.8.
Pitch #3: Climb the arete out of the U shaped bowl and belay at a bomber belay just under the main mid-way wall ledge. Great Pitch and good rock with excellent protection. 5.10b.
Pitch #4: Gingerly step out onto the main ledge and scramble out left of a tree and large boulder. You may find the one bolt on this pitch! 5.4.
Pitch #5: Pass two small roofs to a two bolt belay. 5.7.
Pitch #6: Climb left of a left facing dihedral to the "Great Ledge". 5.9.
Pitch #7: Starts out with a handcrack through strenuous roofs to wildly exposed, but well protected face climbing. This is a classic Smoot pitch...bolts are found where it won't otherwise protect with a continuously "out there" feeling. 5.10c.
Pitch #8: Surmount a roof and follow the alpine summit ridge to the top! 5.5, 200 feet.
Pitches #1 and #2 link together
Pitches #4 and #5 may be linked together
Walk off the West Ridge