Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett (Lower Wall) and Brian Smoot (Upper Wall), July 2004
Page Views: 9,008 total · 52/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Young (and old!) rockers often times flash the "horns of satan" hand sign with the index and baby fingers extended. Can't miss it at rock concerts! A similar shaped feature clearly demarcates the crux lower pitches of Horns Of Satan. Look for a roof that caps a U shaped face with an arete above it.

Pitch #1: Climb past some low level looseness and 3 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.6.

Pitch #2: Follow bolts to a great ledge under a wild looking roof. Better Rock! 5.8.

Pitch #3: Climb the arete out of the U shaped bowl and belay at a bomber belay just under the main mid-way wall ledge. Great Pitch and good rock with excellent protection. 5.10b.

Pitch #4: Gingerly step out onto the main ledge and scramble out left of a tree and large boulder. You may find the one bolt on this pitch!
5.4.

Pitch #5: Pass two small roofs to a two bolt belay. 5.7.

Pitch #6: Climb left of a left facing dihedral to the "Great Ledge". 5.9.

Pitch #7: Starts out with a handcrack through strenuous roofs to wildly exposed, but well protected face climbing. This is a classic Smoot pitch...bolts are found where it won't otherwise protect with a continuously "out there" feeling. 5.10c.

Pitch #8: Surmount a roof and follow the alpine summit ridge to the top! 5.5, 200 feet.

Pitches #1 and #2 link together
Pitches #4 and #5 may be linked together
Rappel Black Streak or walk off the West Ridge

Location

Located in the little apron about 100 feet to the left of Black Streak. Early season, most of the first pitch may be under snow. This is a steeper and more complicated approach than for Black Streak in early season so an ice axe may minimize the exposure. Spontaneous rockfall from melting snow and mountain goats poses a threat to the base of the route and the approach. Once on the route, this hazard decreases. Although equipped for descent, recommended to walk off.

Protection

One set micro camalots to #.75

One set of Camalots #1-3

QDs and many runners

Helmet!

Photos