Avg: 2.7 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Brian Smoot and James Garrett, 24 August 2002|
|Page Views:||4,594 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Located 250 feet to the right of Evil Eye.
Pitch #1: Face climbing to the right of a left facing corner. 5.8, 100'.
Pitch #2: Climb the overlapping roofs (The Seismic Sea Wave) with incredible position and great rock to another ledge. 5.10d, 90'.
Pitch #3: On low angle terrain, scramble to some easy 5th class to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 160'.
Pitch #4: Climb through a roof passing pitons and bolts to a gully on the left. Traverse past this gully (well protected)to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 120'.
Pitch #5: Jog left than right through another roof to underneath a groove. 5.9, 90'.
Pitch #6: Climb past 4 bolts (5.7) to the final upper headwall to the top. 5.11a.
Protection: One set of cams to 3.5 Camalot. QDs and runners. Helmet