Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian Cabe and Brian Smoot , August 2007
Page Views: 8,518 total · 43/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10c/d)
P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)
P3 - Climb strait up to a bolt (don't go right!) climb the steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)
P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.
P5 - Move right a few feet. Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P6 - Diagonal up & left to a steep section...good finger pockets. A hand sized crack leads to a large ledge/ramp near the top. Belay at a single bolt higher on the ledge. (5.10b)
P7 - walk 35' left to a short steep wall. Ascend this, on great rock to an arĂȘte. Follow this to to the summit. (5.10)

Have fun and as usual, watch for loose stuff. Most belays are protected. As with any route on the Castle, stick to climbing on the bedrock and try to avoid pulling on blocks or flakes or fractured rock.

Location Suggest change

North face of Devil's Castle. Begin 100 right of Evil Eye, just left of a 30' pillar.

Protection Suggest change

1 set TCU's to a #2, 1 each Camalots #.5 to #3. many runners