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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian Cabe and Brian Smoot , August 2007
Page Views: 4,371 total, 35/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10c/d)
P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)
P3 - Climb strait up to a bolt (don't go right!) climb the steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)
P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.
P5 - Move right a few feet. Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P6 - Diagonal up & left to a steep section...good finger pockets. A hand sized crack leads to a large ledge/ramp near the top. Belay at a single bolt higher on the ledge. (5.10b)
P7 - walk 35' left to a short steep wall. Ascend this, on great rock to an arĂȘte. Follow this to to the summit. (5.10)

Have fun and as usual, watch for loose stuff. Most belays are protected. As with any route on the Castle, stick to climbing on the bedrock and try to avoid pulling on blocks or flakes or fractured rock.

Location

North face of Devil's Castle. Begin 100 right of Evil Eye, just left of a 30' pillar.

Protection

1 set TCU's to a #2, 1 each Camalots #.5 to #3. many runners
drock3  
I thought this route was wwwwaaayyyy better than the black streak. There was less choss and every pitch was real climbing on this (if felt like black streak had a lot of scrambling with a few sections of climbing)

1st pitch is the crux. 2nd is pumpy but easier. The 5.10 pitches up top were super fun.

I placed 2 #2s and a #1. Aug 21, 2017
davidbrandonkamp
  5.10d
davidbrandonkamp  
  5.10d
SOOO good! Minus the 50' of 5.4 rubble, the climbing is consistently interesting and varied, from overhanging jugs to techy slab and steep pockets, with a couple jams thrown in for good measure, there is a little something for every climber. What a day! I only placed 3 pieces the whole climb, a #2 and .75 on the pitch 3 hand crack and a #2 to back up the belay at the top of pitch 6 on the great ledge. A classic for the castle for sure! tread softly and stay safe! Sep 20, 2016
Seth Reelitz   Utah
Noah,
We could see the rock scar from where your accident was, it looked like a big ass section of rock. I would recommend going slightly left (directly below the first bolt) from the anchors. Going to right where you did puts you on a big choss pile, looks very loose and scary. For anyone considering this climb, you shouldn't worry too much at the start of pitch three as long as you don't go right. Glad you and your partner didn't get seriously hurt. Stay safe. Sep 18, 2016
Seth Reelitz   Utah
My buddy and I did this great climb today, but with our numb hands we each dropped a piece of gear. Near the base there should be a cypher firefly draw and on top of pitch two a blue bd pearabiner. Would love to get them back if you find them, a few Epic beers for a safe return. Thank you. Sep 18, 2016
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d R
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d R
Thanks James, that's a good way to put it. Sep 9, 2016
James Garrett
  5.10d
James Garrett  
  5.10d
Wow!... Glad you guys are OK. The whole formation is a choss heap and one must walk softly on the back of the Devil. Sep 9, 2016
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d R
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d R
While the climbing is great on the first and second pitches, there is extraordinary rock fall danger as compared to even Horns or Black Streak. Beginning P3 yesterday I pulled off a section of rock at least 10' in height and 4' in width, cutting my rope in multiple spots, questionably concussing my partner, and nearly dying in the process. My helmet got smashed, and my partner needed stitches, but held onto the rope despite the shower of blocks. Even before that, topping out P1 was fraught with death blocks. I'd avoid this one, or take it far, far more seriously than the other routes here. Sep 8, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Definitely my favorite route on the Castle for all the reasons above! sustained, and unlike horns and black streak, the bolted pitches caught my attention a bit more. While I always link the first two pitches of Horns and BS its more logical/necessary not to link the first couple pitches. As mentioned above these both have some character and easily my favorite pitches on the castle along with the crack pitch on Horns. None of it seemed PG-13 but certainly more heads up than horns or BS. Seems the most exposed move was starting the final 10d pitch. One can back this move up with a .3 Camalot. but it can be easily clipped with a stem (says a tall climber), then climbed. First pitch is more technical face climbing, where the second is more powerful overhanging moves off good jugs. However I cannot stress enough that the moves are all there and not sand bagged! Get on this, it is a stellar line. Jul 25, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10d
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10d
This climb has it all! Crimps, pockets, jugs, sidepulls, underclings, heel hooks, mantels, and even multiple hand jams. A stellar route on rock quality slightly better than Black Streak, though watch those lose edges.

Definitely felt like the ratings on the first two pitches should be reversed (5.10b then 5.10d). The upper 5.10 pitches climb totally different and felt substantially "easier" than the first two.

That being said, the 2nd pitch is basically 100' of gently overhanging jug hauling where the next hold may not be always obvious. Jul 19, 2016
JBONE  
Best choss guzzle up here IMHO. Jul 17, 2014
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.10+
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.10+
The first three pitches are great. Be careful with rockfall on the 4th and 5th. Large blocks can (and were) knocked off. Helmet mandatory! Protection felt fine, I don't think PG13 is needed. Jul 13, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
This is the best route on the Castle. Two awesome 5.10 bolt pitches to a 5.9 hand crack, and that's only half the route! Jul 26, 2013
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Good route. Great "sporty" climbing with chosslicious goodness. We climbed it as a 3 party, and all felt the first pitch was harder than the second. I would rate the first pitch 5.10d and the second 5.10a/b. The first pitch has a strange sequence and some committing moves over clean rock. The second pitch is glorious and steep with jugs abound. The 5.8 pitch felt 5.6, and the 5.10c section on the second to last pitch seemed hard, but eased after I could visually see the moves. The last pitch is a great, steep, and sporty @ 5.10d to a great summit.
We climbed it using only one #.75, one #1, two #2, and one #3 camalots.
We had also had 8 slings and used all of them.
I felt this route is more sustained than Horns of Satan, Black Streak, and Gothic Pillar.
Once again, good route and sincere thanks to the Brians for the hard work!


Stevie Aug 12, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c/d
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c/d
All the 5.10 pitches are great with some thoughtful sequences. The 2nd pitch is steep and the edges are sharp - the second might appreciate 2 ropes as opposed to a single rope. Really only need a single set of 3 or 4 cams 1-3 inches and plenty of draws/long slings if you want to cut weight. I only use them on the 3rd pitch and it protects very well. Its an easy walk off with no risk of rockfall if you hike. Sep 1, 2011
apross  
Good route, lots of climbing, not as much chossing around as some of the other climbs. Like James also forgot topo, thought we were on Evil Eye.
No problems rte finding and good gear where you need it.
I linked p3 and 4 together as the belay is right in line below if you knock anything off.

Good work Brian's. Aug 29, 2010
James Garrett
  5.10d
James Garrett  
  5.10d
I might have to reaccess my favorite DC route. We forgot our MP topo, but no problems with orientation. The protection is not PG, it is excellent. Loved it!
We rappelled Black Streak. All pretty clean rockfall free pulls. 70m rope seems to be the best for all DC climbing. Jul 17, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Very good route, feels more sporty than others on the wall with really interesting sequences in the 5.10 sections.
P1 hits you in the face right away with a tricky roof, I thought it was hard for 10b and maybe harder than the 10c pitches. P2 is really fun, steep and sustained with holds appearing out of nowhere right when you need them. The crack on P3 bites (read: sharp) but protects really well. I placed one of each BD #1, #2 and #3 and didn't feel the need for doubles.
Run p4 and p5 together and enjoy the really cool moves on P6 and P7.
I think we used a .75 on p7 and that's about it for the gear, the whole thing felt really safe.
Watch for loose rock and breaking holds, keep your head down, it's Devil's Castle! Aug 26, 2008
JimG  
My partner and I both really enjoyed this route. It seemed like this had more climbing and less scrambling than some of the other Devils Castle routes; on some sections you could almost say that the rock is pretty good. Pitch 2 is great, but there are good hard sections on several other pitches. Take some cams for sure for the pitch 3 crack; I think we placed #.75, 1, 2, and 3 camalots and an extra #1 or #2 would have been nice; it isn't that hard but it's overhanging and that rock is kind of spooky. There were a couple of other spots where we placed a cam on easier terain. Take lots of draws and full-length slings. There are good, safe bolted belays. You top out just to the west of Black Streak, so rap it for the descent. Aug 13, 2008