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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pete Vanslooten, Troy Anderson
Page Views: 1,038 total · 75/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Aug 28, 2017 with updates from Brian in SLC
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Three pitches of mostly bolted climbing with a couple cams interspersed in. Good Devils castle climbing up rock that seems steeper than it appears. All belays are at great ledges. Follow the line of bolts and place cams where there aren't any bolts. Rap the route with one 60 meter rope via 3 raps. This is a great route to climb before doing portable darkness if you want more pitches.

Pitch one: Climb straight up past bolts to a crack below "the ear." Place cams till you climb into the maw of the ear. Do a couple poon limp moves (similiar to the maw on crescent crack) past bolts to a nice ledge. 5.10a. Note: there is a bolt at the top of the ear that helps protect the second and keeps the rope off the rock.

Pitch two: Climb up past two bolts to gain a ledge. Walk right on the ledge then climb up heading towards more bolts. USE LONG RUNNERS HERE on the first 6 bolts of this pitch or you will have rope drag. Climb into the steep bulge sections past more bolts to a small airy belay ledge with anchor. 5.10a

Pitch three: Climb up and left into a corner past multiple bolts to the a large ledge with a belay anchor. 5.7

Location

This route is located west of Portable Darkness up the big black streak. The bolts are visible from the base. It climbs an obvious ear looking feature 50 feet off the ground. The ear has bolts, therefore large gear is not needed, so don't be scared. Each pitch arches therefore the belayer is not directly under the line of fire.

Protection

At least 8 long runners to minimize rope drap. Only one set of BD cams (.75- #3). Yellow and orange tcu's. You will likely not need all of those. A whole bunch of quickdraws. One 60 meter rope. Helmets.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
OOOOOOOOHHH BOY!! A new four-star DC choss-munching adventure, can't wait to get after it.
Can't believe you two didn't take it to the top though. That lower-angle tree infested scree band looks so appealing... Is there any way to traverse to the upper pitches of Portable Darkness? I can't ever be caught rappelling off DC, the depth of the hypocrisy would make me spontaneously burst into flames (and if I didn't I suspect JimmyG would be close by with gasoline and a lighter). Aug 28, 2017
Stevie Nacho
Utah
  5.10a
Stevie Nacho   Utah
  5.10a
Yes, you can traverse into portable darkness. We wanted to post the first three pitches as a route. We're working on the upper pitches and will post those as a continuation. It's a pretty big tree field, so we felt two sections are in order. We needed to report this cause people were asking about the first pitch bolts. Actually,The whole reason I post on mp is for boissals comments!! Aug 28, 2017
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Great looking rock! Nice job! Aug 30, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Can anything on the Castle ever achieve four stars?! Enquiring minds want to know. Sep 14, 2017
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
How offensive Drew!!

Crag specific star-rating in full effect!! On the Castle, Shadow of the Blade = best route = 4 stars, classic for the Castle. Hellevator shaft = vilest man-eating choss-filled maw of doom = 1 star.

If you widen things to LCC the classic status may go away for the former and the latter may even get a bomb. But since you have to be in a certain mindset to climb the Castle you might as well shift the frame of reference a bit...

By that logic A Cloud In The Sky is 4 stars for the upper left side of the Clamshell. Classics everywhere you look!! Sep 14, 2017
bus driver  
 
Stevie’s 4star rationale:
+1star automatic First Ascentiinist quality increase
+.5 star because it has a giant “ maw” to climb through (think steeper sporty version of the maw in crescent crack)
+Minimum 2.5 stars for the actual climbing on the route.
+.5 stars because it’s a clean rap right to your gear
+.5 star because he’s been wanting to use that name for years.
=5 stars but only 4 were available.

Who’s going to get the 2A on this thing? May 31, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
What are you doing tomorrow morning?? May 31, 2018
bus driver  
 
‘Projectbating instead of climbing Jun 6, 2018
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
 
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
 
I “accidentally swiped,” 2 carabiners which the F.A.’s had thoughtfully left as rappel biners.
Not sure from which pitch. Heading out of town tomorrow, and cannot get back for awhile.
Sorry about that! If you plan to rappel the route ( I don’t recommend it; there is plenty of loose rock still left on almost every ledge, and the walk off is easy), then bring some quick links and/or chain.
Sorry! Must be Alpenheimer’s disease.
The route is fun, and will improve as it cleans up with use. (This is an alpine limestone route and will always contain some loose rock.)
You can definitely link to upper pitches of “Portable Darkness, the last pitch of which truly outstanding. From the ledge at the top of Poon Limp, an easy and obvious traverse to climber’s left reaches Portable Darkness in one pitch.
Climbed this linkup today with Brian Smoot, who led the 5.10 pitches. Jul 7, 2018
bsmoot  
"That lower-angle tree infested scree band looks so appealing..." Heckling aside, The steep rock 30' right of Portable Darkness looks like it has possibilities.... we didn't see any work by Stevie here. Jul 9, 2018

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