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Enemy at the Gate
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Devil's Castle
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Enemy at the Gate T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI3+ M5 Steep Snow R |
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Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.56562, -111.61357 |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Diego Peggs, John Weinberg & Adam Brown, September 2025 |
| Page Views: | 75 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Oct 2, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 - Scramble up a short ramp to its top. Follow the bolt line on good rock to a belay on a narrow ledge. (5.10d)
P2 - Traverse left 6' to a bolt. Climb up from here past a rotten bulge on steep rock to a stance on an improbable spike of rock, stranding you below a big roof. Power through this exposed section to the slab above and a belay. (5.11c)
P3 - Climb above past 2 bolts to a small left facing corner. Above here, carefully traverse right about 30' to a bolted belay. (5.8) short pitch.
P4 - Traverse left about 15' to 2 bolts. Higher, more bolts lead to a fractured right facing corner. Follow this up and right to a narrow belay ledge. (5.9+/ 5.10a)
P5 - Ascend the dark water streak above to easier climbing. Quest above past 4 more bolts ( one of these bolts is hidden to the right around a rib of rock) to a belay under a roof. (5.9)
P6 - Traverse 35' straight left to a bolt. Move up past a small tree and more bolts to a great top out ledge and a single bolt belay. This can be backed up. (5.10a).
As with any new route on the Castle, be extra careful with loose rock. We did our best to clean up what we could. Avoid this route if anyone is climbing Gothic Pillar. The first 2 pitches are all bolt protected. The rest of the climbing requires trad gear to supplement the bolts. Be careful on the pitch 2 roof as if you fall, it's hard to swing back in to the rock.
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