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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Brian Cabe & Patty Black 13 July 2007
Page Views: 157 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Aug 26, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Natural features up initial cracks to shallow open bookish climbing on good ol' Devil's Castle limestone.

Initially, cracks are solid and take some gear and the rock is good. Near the top there's a set of stacked blocks which are loose. Would be safer to be to the left on the bolted line.

Past the creaky blocks where the wall get steeper, traverse slightly left to anchor on Portable Darkness.

The route follows natural weaknesses and after the initial lower angle slab cracks, leads to some sketchy steeper looseness.

Not a recommended route. This was the initial probe establishing the first pitch anchor for Portable Darkness. Doubtful its been repeated.


Just right of the first pitch bolt line of Portable Darkness.

Rappel or continue up from first pitch bolted anchor of Portable Darkness.


Standard rack to include a set (or two) of cams and a full set of nuts. One lead bolt near the end of the route on the steeper flat left facing wall prior to the creaky finish set of blocks.



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