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Routes in Devil's Castle

Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Horns Of Satan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portable Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Cabe, Matt Scullion w/ Jason Shumaker and Patty Black
Page Views: 6,126 total, 50/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

All pitches are 30 meters (100 feet) long and end at bolted belay anchors. Assume all pitches have loose rock.

P1 - Ascend the lower angle slab to a short, steep finish and belay anchor on a shallow ledge (5.8). 11 bolts.
P2 - Climb slightly left and up the steep, black face. Small to medium cams supplement the bolts on this pitch (#2 TCU especially useful). Finish up a neat chimney to an exposed belay position (5.9+). 11 bolts, one piton.
P3 - Trend up and left, aiming for a steep, black shallow corner at the base of the prominent arête. Lower angle rock interspersed with dirt and gravel bars (take care). Pass three bolts below a tree positioned straight above the P2 belay, pass the short pine bush either right (up to tree, then traverse left) or below to the left. One more bolt leads to the belay anchor on a ledge on the low angle slab (5.3). 4 bolts.
P4 – Paddle up the slab, clip bolt on face, then climb up to steep, black face in the shallow corner. Pin, bolt, pin (long sling reduces rope drag), bolt. Place gear. Out of the darkness, into the light (climb goes from north facing to west facing). Step up and move right on exposed ledge (pro on right side of flake) then up at transition of arête and face, passing 3 more bolts to a belay ledge (5.9). 6 bolts, two pitons.
P5 – Pass a tree in the corner, clip piton, then pretty much straight up, staying right of the arête at the transition of the arête and face, passing ledges in lower angle terrain. Bolt, pin, pin (long sling or skip) then 3 bolts to belay anchor just right of the arête, and right of the base of a large, flat topped block on the arête (5.7). 4 bolts, three pitons.
P6 – Step up, clip bolt, then pin, then step left and clip bolt. Climb up arête passing small roof, bolt, then continue up arête. Clip several more bolts. At a break in the arête, clip bolt on steep face on the left side of the arête with a long sling, then traverse slightly to the right side of the arête, clip bolt, then up face to short pinnacle summit. Traverse broken low angle terrain to final short steep face, bolt, then up to left angling low angle to belay anchor (5.8). 10 bolts, one piton.

Location

30 meters (100 feet) to the right of Gothic Pillar. Start on a low angle slab and look for a brown colored bolt hanger on the light gray face. There has been notable rock fall from above (wear a helmet). There are lower angle goat trails above and especially to the right of the route. If windy, rocks can dislodge and come down unannounced as well. Route could be descended with a single 60 meter rope (hard rope pull on pitch 4) but it’s much safer to walk off to the West.

The route ascends through a chimney visible from below on the first steep section, then a low angle slab to a steeper black face at the base of the prominent arête. This buttress is the last steep arête on the right side of the main north face that continues to the summit ridge of Devil’s Castle. The route follows the right (West facing) side of the arête (Gothic Pillar is on the left side of this arête) and the last pitch finishes on the arête itself.

Protection

Helmet. Fully deployed loose rock radar.
Recommended Rack:
Cams: 0 TCU to 1 Camalot (or equivalent)
12 Quick Draws
6 Slings
Stevie Nacho   Utah
The new route next to Portable Darkness should be finished soon. We'll be up there next weekend to finish the steep pitches. I would recommend staying away from this rig till we get done cleaning and equipping it. Its going to be a great addition to the Devils Chosspile. We'll make sure to post the route on this website when were done.

tda Aug 20, 2017
Approach: there is a new route with shinier hangers just to the right of the start of P1. However the "brown hangers on easy grey slab" is very distinct compared to any of the other starts on the wall.

I am not a brave leader and I would say this was "sport" bolted 5.9 with zero need for gear.

P2: I couldn't find piton in the chimney but the moves felt very secure from the last bolt to the anchor. Don't try this section with a large backpack on your back.

P4: I couldn't find a piton between the two bolts on the steep black face. I wasted some time looking for it because the space between the bolts looked a little big from below but those are very secure moves and it's fine without that piton. The next bolt (as well as the final bolt) above the ledge were hard to spot but the climbing there is very easy once you gain the ledge. Definitely need long runners for this pitch. Aug 20, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Casual and delicious sums it up well. A great addition to the Castle and a pretty good intro to the climbing up there.
I thought P1 and P2 were really good with the crux on P2 being standard Castle goodness: long moves on good holds up steep solid black rock.The chimney was actually fun, especially after turning around a few times. The belay perch there is pretty outstanding. The middle section is probably the most solid of any on the Castle's routes and while the climbing is somewhat unremarkable at least you're in the sun and your belayer is outside of the bomb track. The upper arete is super fun and exposed.
As others have mentioned the gear is probably superfluous if you're comfortable at the grade. I spotted a few obvious placements but never felt like I needed the gear. Runners are mandatory though as there's a fair amount of wandering.
The walk off is as pleasant as ever, please don't be a giant toolbag and rap the Black Streak. Aug 24, 2015
bus driver
  5.9
bus driver  
  5.9
Casual and delicious. The luscious looseness that adds spice to the blah is becoming an endangered species on this one. Enjoy it while it lasts.

The hills are alive with the sound of music. Aug 18, 2015
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Don't even think of rapping this
I couldn't agree more, the walk off isn't bad and plus the views are great! Aug 5, 2015
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
No need to bring any cams this a 6 pitch sport climb for sure. Most of the climb is bolted about body length. Never did I feel like I need to supplement the bolts and I am not bold.

Pitches 1-3 are clean and enjoyable. The upper 1/2 of pitch 4 is like climbing through a Jenga game. Rocks on rocks on almost any flat edge between the bolts, bordered by looseness and choss on both sides. It is possible to climb through this without knocking anything down but you really need to be heads up. Watch what you touch, stand on and your rope as you climb, your belayer is directly below. Still fun.

Pitch 5 is ok, low angle easy climbing and 6 is great super cool arete.

The 5.9 version of a Castle Route, worth doing for sure!

Don't even think of rapping this. Easiest/shortest walk off there is. Simply follow the trail West to the saddle, then down to the lake and then the lot.

1/2 to the base, 1 hour down. Aug 4, 2015
did this late last Fall (SO cold) and a few days ago (much better weather), and it's a great climb. Pitches 2,4, and 6 are the best to lead (or let a good friend lead =), but the whole climb is really good. A good amount of loose rock (tons in some areas), but the holds are all good and big, and the view is money. Sep 3, 2013
notmyname
Sandy, UT
  5.8- PG13
notmyname   Sandy, UT
  5.8- PG13
I fully respect the work that went into this climb, however unlike the previous posters, I thought it was the worst multipitch I've ever done. As for beta - no cams necessary - well bolted and certainly not PG-13 or R rated. Aug 4, 2013
john climaco
Park City, Utah
john climaco   Park City, Utah
Just did this today - what an outstanding line. Beautiful and fun climbing. However, I agree there's no way is it R or even PG-13. There are big, fat bolts everywhere you need them (and even where you might not, like on the 5.3 pitch) so bring 12 draws, a few long slings and nothing else. The anchors are all ringed as well just in case you need to bail. I also wouldn't rate it 9+. If you climb that grade you will cruise this thing.

I would add that you should not climb this under any circumstances if there is a party above you. There is loose rock on every pitch (some are covered in it) and it was virtually impossible not to kick things off. Sep 3, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.9+
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.9+
Really fun climb that I enjoyed a lot! Here's my take on the pitches.

Pitch 1: Mostly 5.6ish, with some 5.8 moves at the last few bolts before the belay on a small ledge. A fun pitch, but nothing spectacular.
Pitch 2: Steep 5.9+ on good, flat edges up nice rock to a sweet, easy, and exposed chimney. Belay is on a good stance above the chimney. My favorite pitch on the route.
Pitch 3: Apparently there are 4 bolts on this pitch, but I only found two. I climbed up to the small tree with rope/slings on it and then left on over to the belay, but I think the bolts are to the left more. Belay on a good ledge. 5.3ish.
Pitch 4: Start out on some fun 5.8+ moves up a dark corner (passing a couple bolts and some pins) to a small ledge on top of the corner. Go right on the ledge to find the next bolt. Climb up the left side of the gully, clipping the bolts on the rocky arete to the left. Belay is on a good ledge with three bolts.
Pitch 5: Climb up to the small tree (I climbed around it to the right, but going around the left of it would result in less rope drag. There’s a small piton with a ring on it right above the tree. Climb up and slightly left from the tree. 5.7. The belay is on a good ledge right on the ridge.
Pitch 6: The other awesome pitch on the route. Fun 5.8 climbing takes you up the sharp, exposed ridge. Belay at a good ledge with two bolts. As of 9/3/10, there was gray webbing and a quicklink on the bolts. My partner thought that the last pitch was the coolest he had ever done!

I didn’t think any pitches were R or PG-13 rated. The route is very well bolted.

In addition to the dozen draws and half dozen slings, I took half a dozen cams and didn’t use any of them anywhere on the route.

More pics on my blog here. Sep 5, 2010
James Garrett
  5.9+
James Garrett  
  5.9+
Climbed this again this season. The lower pitches are the lamb chops, whereas the upper ones are the landscapes. It baffles me that anyone could remotely think this route is either PG13 or R protected. Even Gregorio doesn't drill this close....Don't misunderstand...I am not complaining. We all loved it....a Swiss friend said it reminded him of Plaisir climbs... beautiful climbing and weather...only ones on the whole wall....walked along summit ridge and did last crack pitch of Des Teufels Bollwerk for a finale.

DC is definitely not for everybody, but I'll be back.... Jul 20, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Bummed about your rope, James. Which pitch? Would extending the rap anchor a bit help?
Glad you liked the route! Jul 20, 2009
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
This route is a great addition to the Castle as it is the best protected and most moderate of all of the multi pitch routes. The unique 2nd pitch offers cool chimney that ends at an exposed belay. The upper pitches had some good air too.

Great Job! Sep 7, 2008
JimG
 
JimG  
 
Did this today; fun stuff, a worthwhile addition to Devils Castle. Thanks to the FA team for putting this up; that must have taken some time, effort and expense. Pitch 2 with that little chimney at the top and the final pitch up the arete were great. We took some gear but didn't end up placing any of it, the bolts and pins seemed adequate. The belays are fairly sheltered and we didn't see any natural rockfall, but there is plenty of loose rock so as always at the Castle wear helmets and climb carefully.
Black Streak seems to be seeing more traffic these days, and I would never climb under another party on Devils Castle, so if you are up there to do Black Streak and it is occupied this route would be a good alternative at about the same length and difficulty. Aug 6, 2008
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
"Paddle up the slab" ??? Yes!! ...Adventure!! ...Can't wait to do this!! ... Fixed pins...what more could you ask for?? ...OK, a fixed bashie. Sep 26, 2007