Avg: 2.2 from 53 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Brian Cabe, Matt Scullion w/ Jason Shumaker and Patty Black|
|Page Views:||8,151 total · 48/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Sep 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1 - Ascend the lower angle slab to a short, steep finish and belay anchor on a shallow ledge (5.8). 11 bolts.
P2 - Climb slightly left and up the steep, black face. Small to medium cams supplement the bolts on this pitch (#2 TCU especially useful). Finish up a neat chimney to an exposed belay position (5.9+). 11 bolts, one piton.
P3 - Trend up and left, aiming for a steep, black shallow corner at the base of the prominent arête. Lower angle rock interspersed with dirt and gravel bars (take care). Pass three bolts below a tree positioned straight above the P2 belay, pass the short pine bush either right (up to tree, then traverse left) or below to the left. One more bolt leads to the belay anchor on a ledge on the low angle slab (5.3). 4 bolts.
P4 Paddle up the slab, clip bolt on face, then climb up to steep, black face in the shallow corner. Pin, bolt, pin (long sling reduces rope drag), bolt. Place gear. Out of the darkness, into the light (climb goes from north facing to west facing). Step up and move right on exposed ledge (pro on right side of flake) then up at transition of arête and face, passing 3 more bolts to a belay ledge (5.9). 6 bolts, two pitons.
P5 Pass a tree in the corner, clip piton, then pretty much straight up, staying right of the arête at the transition of the arête and face, passing ledges in lower angle terrain. Bolt, pin, pin (long sling or skip) then 3 bolts to belay anchor just right of the arête, and right of the base of a large, flat topped block on the arête (5.7). 4 bolts, three pitons.
P6 Step up, clip bolt, then pin, then step left and clip bolt. Climb up arête passing small roof, bolt, then continue up arête. Clip several more bolts. At a break in the arête, clip bolt on steep face on the left side of the arête with a long sling, then traverse slightly to the right side of the arête, clip bolt, then up face to short pinnacle summit. Traverse broken low angle terrain to final short steep face, bolt, then up to left angling low angle to belay anchor (5.8). 10 bolts, one piton.
The route ascends through a chimney visible from below on the first steep section, then a low angle slab to a steeper black face at the base of the prominent arête. This buttress is the last steep arête on the right side of the main north face that continues to the summit ridge of Devils Castle. The route follows the right (West facing) side of the arête (Gothic Pillar is on the left side of this arête) and the last pitch finishes on the arête itself.