Portable Darkness
5.9 PG13,
Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.2 from 60
votes
FA: Brian Cabe, Matt Scullion w/ Jason Shumaker and Patty Black
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Albion Basin
> Devil's Castle
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
All pitches are 30 meters (100 feet) long and end at bolted belay anchors. Assume all pitches have loose rock.
P1 - Ascend the lower angle slab to a short, steep finish and belay anchor on a shallow ledge (5.8). 11 bolts.
P2 - Climb slightly left and up the steep, black face. Small to medium cams supplement the bolts on this pitch (#2 TCU especially useful). Finish up a neat chimney to an exposed belay position (5.9+). 11 bolts, one piton.
P3 - Trend up and left, aiming for a steep, black shallow corner at the base of the prominent arête. Lower angle rock interspersed with dirt and gravel bars (take care). Pass three bolts below a tree positioned straight above the P2 belay, pass the short pine bush either right (up to tree, then traverse left) or below to the left. One more bolt leads to the belay anchor on a ledge on the low angle slab (5.3). 4 bolts.
P4 Paddle up the slab, clip bolt on face, then climb up to steep, black face in the shallow corner. Pin, bolt, pin (long sling reduces rope drag), bolt. Place gear. Out of the darkness, into the light (climb goes from north facing to west facing). Step up and move right on exposed ledge (pro on right side of flake) then up at transition of arête and face, passing 3 more bolts to a belay ledge (5.9). 6 bolts, two pitons.
P5 Pass a tree in the corner, clip piton, then pretty much straight up, staying right of the arête at the transition of the arête and face, passing ledges in lower angle terrain. Bolt, pin, pin (long sling or skip) then 3 bolts to belay anchor just right of the arête, and right of the base of a large, flat topped block on the arête (5.7). 4 bolts, three pitons.
P6 Step up, clip bolt, then pin, then step left and clip bolt. Climb up arête passing small roof, bolt, then continue up arête. Clip several more bolts. At a break in the arête, clip bolt on steep face on the left side of the arête with a long sling, then traverse slightly to the right side of the arête, clip bolt, then up face to short pinnacle summit. Traverse broken low angle terrain to final short steep face, bolt, then up to left angling low angle to belay anchor (5.8). 10 bolts, one piton.
Location
30 meters (100 feet) to the right of Gothic Pillar. Start on a low angle slab and look for a brown colored bolt hanger on the light gray face. There has been notable rock fall from above (wear a helmet). There are lower angle goat trails above and especially to the right of the route. If windy, rocks can dislodge and come down unannounced as well. Route could be descended with a single 60 meter rope (hard rope pull on pitch 4) but its much safer to walk off to the West.
The route ascends through a chimney visible from below on the first steep section, then a low angle slab to a steeper black face at the base of the prominent arête. This buttress is the last steep arête on the right side of the main north face that continues to the summit ridge of Devils Castle. The route follows the right (West facing) side of the arête (Gothic Pillar is on the left side of this arête) and the last pitch finishes on the arête itself.
Protection
Helmet. Fully deployed loose rock radar.
Recommended Rack:
Cams: 0 TCU to 1 Camalot (or equivalent)
12 Quick Draws
6 Slings
![Portable Darkness route location from the west looking back east. "Do what thou wilt..."]()
[Hide Photo] Portable Darkness route location from the west looking back east. "Do what thou wilt..."
![Portable Darkness route topo.]()
[Hide Photo] Portable Darkness route topo.
![What does this mean on the hanger?]()
[Hide Photo] What does this mean on the hanger?
![Looking down from near the top of the pitch 2 chimney. Unfortunately, the pic doesn't quite do it justice, but you can see the awesome exposure.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down from near the top of the pitch 2 chimney. Unfortunately, the pic doesn't quite do it justice, but you can see the awesome exposure.
![Carolina and Felix following up the memorable arete pitch high on the route]()
[Hide Photo] Carolina and Felix following up the memorable arete pitch high on the route
![Ending the pitch after some well deserved cleaning and choss trundles.]()
[Hide Photo] Ending the pitch after some well deserved cleaning and choss trundles.
![Climbers on portable darkness. Photo taken from the first pitch of poon limp or eat crust.]()
[Hide Photo] Climbers on portable darkness. Photo taken from the first pitch of poon limp or eat crust.
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Black Streak seems to be seeing more traffic these days, and I would never climb under another party on Devils Castle, so if you are up there to do Black Streak and it is occupied this route would be a good alternative at about the same length and difficulty. Aug 6, 2008
Great Job! Sep 7, 2008
Sandy, Utah
Glad you liked the route! Jul 20, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
DC is definitely not for everybody, but I'll be back.... Jul 20, 2010
Pocatello, ID
Pitch 1: Mostly 5.6ish, with some 5.8 moves at the last few bolts before the belay on a small ledge. A fun pitch, but nothing spectacular.
Pitch 2: Steep 5.9+ on good, flat edges up nice rock to a sweet, easy, and exposed chimney. Belay is on a good stance above the chimney. My favorite pitch on the route.
Pitch 3: Apparently there are 4 bolts on this pitch, but I only found two. I climbed up to the small tree with rope/slings on it and then left on over to the belay, but I think the bolts are to the left more. Belay on a good ledge. 5.3ish.
Pitch 4: Start out on some fun 5.8+ moves up a dark corner (passing a couple bolts and some pins) to a small ledge on top of the corner. Go right on the ledge to find the next bolt. Climb up the left side of the gully, clipping the bolts on the rocky arete to the left. Belay is on a good ledge with three bolts.
Pitch 5: Climb up to the small tree (I climbed around it to the right, but going around the left of it would result in less rope drag. Theres a small piton with a ring on it right above the tree. Climb up and slightly left from the tree. 5.7. The belay is on a good ledge right on the ridge.
Pitch 6: The other awesome pitch on the route. Fun 5.8 climbing takes you up the sharp, exposed ridge. Belay at a good ledge with two bolts. As of 9/3/10, there was gray webbing and a quicklink on the bolts. My partner thought that the last pitch was the coolest he had ever done!
I didnt think any pitches were R or PG-13 rated. The route is very well bolted.
In addition to the dozen draws and half dozen slings, I took half a dozen cams and didnt use any of them anywhere on the route.
More pics on my blog here. tristanhigbee.com/rock-clim… Sep 5, 2010
Park City, Utah
I would add that you should not climb this under any circumstances if there is a party above you. There is loose rock on every pitch (some are covered in it) and it was virtually impossible not to kick things off. Sep 3, 2012
Sonora, CA
SLC, UT
Pitches 1-3 are clean and enjoyable. The upper 1/2 of pitch 4 is like climbing through a Jenga game. Rocks on rocks on almost any flat edge between the bolts, bordered by looseness and choss on both sides. It is possible to climb through this without knocking anything down but you really need to be heads up. Watch what you touch, stand on and your rope as you climb, your belayer is directly below. Still fun.
Pitch 5 is ok, low angle easy climbing and 6 is great super cool arete.
The 5.9 version of a Castle Route, worth doing for sure!
Don't even think of rapping this. Easiest/shortest walk off there is. Simply follow the trail West to the saddle, then down to the lake and then the lot.
1/2 to the base, 1 hour down. Aug 4, 2015
Denver
I couldn't agree more, the walk off isn't bad and plus the views are great! Aug 5, 2015
The hills are alive with the sound of music. Aug 18, 2015
Small Lake, UT
I thought P1 and P2 were really good with the crux on P2 being standard Castle goodness: long moves on good holds up steep solid black rock.The chimney was actually fun, especially after turning around a few times. The belay perch there is pretty outstanding. The middle section is probably the most solid of any on the Castle's routes and while the climbing is somewhat unremarkable at least you're in the sun and your belayer is outside of the bomb track. The upper arete is super fun and exposed.
As others have mentioned the gear is probably superfluous if you're comfortable at the grade. I spotted a few obvious placements but never felt like I needed the gear. Runners are mandatory though as there's a fair amount of wandering.
The walk off is as pleasant as ever, please don't be a giant toolbag and rap the Black Streak. Aug 24, 2015
I am not a brave leader and I would say this was "sport" bolted 5.9 with zero need for gear.
P2: I couldn't find piton in the chimney but the moves felt very secure from the last bolt to the anchor. Don't try this section with a large backpack on your back.
P4: I couldn't find a piton between the two bolts on the steep black face. I wasted some time looking for it because the space between the bolts looked a little big from below but those are very secure moves and it's fine without that piton. The next bolt (as well as the final bolt) above the ledge were hard to spot but the climbing there is very easy once you gain the ledge. Definitely need long runners for this pitch. Aug 20, 2017
Utah
tda Aug 20, 2017
salt lake city, UT
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, UT