Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: FA: Tyler Phillips 2005 FFA: Brendan Nicholson 2007
Page Views: 1,236 total · 45/month
Shared By: Arthur on Sep 1, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Center line on the Tacos Diablo boulder. Harder than it looks for the short length.

Protection

4 bolts. Currently all but the first is fixed but the dog bones look to be a mix of old and new, might be worth replacing but you'll need a wrench for the quicklinks.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Love this thing. It's a perfect mini route. Tough underclings down low, then some burly sidepulls and underclings to decent rails. Then, a few more thin edges and then some funky crack to the top. Not much rest. Amazing moves, and setting. Rock is pretty good too! Plus we were wearing our down jackets in July. No fixed gear today. Jul 1, 2018
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
3rd bolt could use replacing. It's currently in crooked and flexes out of the oddly shaped hole it was forced into. Aug 11, 2018
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
This rock climb has freshie glue in bolts now Aug 28, 2018
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.13a
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.13a
Thanks Brent for the glue-ins.

A nice short & stout climb. It feels like 3 boulder problems stacked on top of one another, I'd say 12d/13a depending on height. The big foot rail at the start is flexing and will probably fall off soon if it's not reinforced.

I also like to have a long draw on the fourth bolt to help with clipping off the rail. Sep 5, 2018
tenesmus  
 
lol, "I'd say 12d/13a depending on height" = 13c if you're tall and heavy and can't crimp worth a crap like me. Sep 14, 2018