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Routes in Devil's Tongue

Devil's Tongue S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

There is a massive amount of rock to the East or left of Devils Castle's Apron. Most of it is quite low angle or broken up. This Buttress is an exception. It is a prominent pillar approx. 200m (maybe a bit more!?) to the left of the Devils Castle routes. It gets quite a bit of afternoon sun, but plan on having weather gear with you as you would for Devil's Castle. The rock is the same limestone found on DC.

Getting There

As for DC, shorter approach time as it is pretty much directly above the Albion Basin campground. See photo.

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