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Devil's Castle ice, mixed & drytool Climbing
| Elevation: | 10,707 ft | 3,263 m |
| GPS: |
40.56552, -111.61654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 127 total · 7/month | |
| Shared By: | Double J on Jul 23, 2024 | |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The home for all the winter climbing on the castle, as well as the summer drytooling area called, the 7even wall (short for the seven deadly sins wall). There is one winter route that holds ice in the late spring (North Face Chimney) and a pure drytooling zone that is above 10,000 feet, north facing and devoid of the heat found in Provo canyon during these same months. The 7even wall is a perfect place to train on the tools during the summer, when the SLC valley temps break 100, it will easily be at least 20 degrees cooler here.
This is also most likely the most chossy part of the Castle, the rock here is quite bad so wear a helmet at all times and be vigilant as a belayer and a bystander, this is not a place to just hang out and not pay attention at all times to your surroundings. Thus, a perfect place to drytool!
*This wall was started in the covid summer of 2020, and is still a work in progress. Please respect any red tags, fixed lines, ect. All the routes will be fully bolted once finished.
Getting There
When wanting to ice climb the North Chimney, one must skin from the base of Alta to the route. This is usually an issue when the ski resort is open for the season, and the Castle is closed to access due to snow conditions. It is best (legal) to wait for the ski hill to close for the season, then you are on your own for snow safety evaluation and route finding to the base of the route.
To get to the dry tooling area, known as the 7even wall, either start walking from the base area of Alta, or pay the toll road fee and drive the summer road to the parking lot next to the campground. Walk the standard summer approach to the Castle->walk through the campground, past the cabins, and up the Devil's castle loop trail till you see the small mine tailings at a bend in the tail. From there, take the climbers trail up through the talus to the base of the wall, then trend right, past all of the standard rock routes. Work your way up through very loose scree half way to the rock route, Hellevator Shaft and the 7even wall will be above you in a box looking like feature.
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