Elevation: 6,399 ft
GPS: 40.575, -111.757 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,045 total · 274/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 13, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock.

Getting There

Park at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: The Thumb Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thumb Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 44
The Summit Pitch
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Indecent Exposure Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 97
The Standard Thumb
Trad 11 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
Higher Expectations
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 22
S-Direct, Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 100
S-Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 17
Spring Fever
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Robbins Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
 6
Nob Job
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
S-Matrix
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Spring and Fall
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 44
S-Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
Coyne Crack
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Monkey Lip
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Summit Pitch
 44
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Indecent Exposure Variation
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Standard Thumb
 97
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 11 pitches
Higher Expectations
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
S-Direct, Variation
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
S-Direct
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Spring Fever
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Robbins Crack
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nob Job
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X Trad 2 pitches
S-Matrix
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Spring and Fall
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
S-Crack
 44
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Coyne Crack
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Monkey Lip
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
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