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The Thumb Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Thumb Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0
	Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
	Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
	Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,399 ft	1,950 m
GPS:	40.5746, -111.7574 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vince Romney on May 13, 2004 · Updates
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock.

Getting There

Park at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thumb Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 55 ● The Summit Pitch Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 100 ● Indecent Exposure Variation Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 139 ● The Standard Thumb Trad 11 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 24 ● S-Direct, Variation Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 139 ● S-Direct Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 7 ● Flake Variation Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 20 ● Spring Fever Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Robbins Crack Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X 9 ● Nob Job Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● S-Matrix Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 24 ● Spring and Fall Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 61 ● S-Crack Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 78 ● Coyne Crack Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 4 ● Monkey Lip Trad