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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 6,399 ft
GPS: 40.575, -111.757 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 31,359 total, 190/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thumb Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Summit Pitch
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indecent Exposure Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Standard Thumb
Trad 11 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Direct, Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring Fever
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Nob Job
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
S-Matrix
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spring and Fall
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Coyne Crack
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Monkey Lip
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Summit Pitch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Indecent Exposure Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Standard Thumb 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 11 pitches
Higher Expectations 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
S-Direct, Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
S-Direct 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Spring Fever 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Robbins Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nob Job 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X Trad 2 pitches
S-Matrix 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Spring and Fall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
S-Crack 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Coyne Crack 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Monkey Lip 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
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Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
Don't underestimate the descent. Tried to follow the topo for the descent trail, but couldn't seem to find the route. Though coming down in the dark didn't really help. Unless you can find the trail on the topo, expect the walk-off decent to take a good bit longer than the supposed 1.5 hours. Nov 11, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
It is possible to rap the entire buttress down the main face using double 60m ropes. Some are a stretch, and the first couple of raps are so low angle that you'll be fighting with the rope. Apr 29, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
mr. goatdavemac - you're speaking of the S-Matrix which has very little beta here. Check the guidebook for more information, and a topo. Apr 13, 2013
goatdavemac
Flat Rock, NC
goatdavemac   Flat Rock, NC
I was on the Thumb formation last fall, and had to bail....but, looking at the photos of the decent/rap options, is there a route that climbs the right angling crack in the "big roof"? Apr 12, 2013
JPFox
SLC, UT
JPFox   SLC, UT
The approach to The Thumb has improved, following the directions above if you keep an eye out there is a tracked out path along the base of the talus field, (very easy to find on the way out) and as the "trail" heads into the woods around the Waterfront Area there is a pretty obvious trail now, it goes all the way to the base May 17, 2010

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