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Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Dana Hauser 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,800 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Jun 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Are you feeling Apey?
Clip the first bolt out of the blocky overhanging alcove and begin climbing out the left-diagonalling roof with generally positive grips and tiny delicate smeary feet. Protect with a couple cams until you reach the first and only rest on the route at about 20 feet up under the little overlap. Not that you even need the rest at this point. Continue climbing left as the difficulty increases with the underclinging becoming more powerful and the smeary feet demanding precision. At the point where the route ceases to be an undercling traverse and becomes more of a vertical left facing flake, bolts mysteriously appear. This is where the route originally ended when Steve Hong and Robert Rotert first climbed it. It is probably 11+ to this point, but the anchors are long gone. At this point the route still hasn't offered any real rests and the climbing continues to be pumpy and sequential as the feet worsen. A little above here, where the headwall kicks back to a gentle overhang, the crux lurks. Memorable, bouldery moves guard the chains. The crux proper is probably only v5, but this is really the only route I can think of in LCC that warrants a significant grade increase due the lack of rests and sustained nature of the climbing.
Location
This route is located on the side of the thumb, up and right from the starts of the standard thumb routes. (S-crack, etc.) You can scramble up the 5th class gully to the right of the standard thumb starts for about 150 vertical feet or so. After the gully scramble, on the wall to your left you'll see a short attractive splitter to a right-leaning flare (this route is Spring and Fall) and up and right about 100 feet is the alcove with the left leaning roof coming out the top-this is Monkey lip. A hard to spot bolt can be used to protect the starting moves. Lower from the anchor at the top. Note: In the Ruckman's guidebook the bolt count is wrong, the difficulty of the first half is erroneously marked as 12c, and the topo sketch is wrong (its drawn in as right facing feature and its most certainly left facing).
Protection
You have your options for cam size to protect much of this crack. If you chose to skip the bolts bring a standard rack of cams- no nuts needed, and double-up to hand size with a key #4 BD instead of the starting bolt. Otherwise just use a single set of cams to hand size and draws. Anchors at top just over the lip(the monkey lip?).
Photos
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