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Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch (AKA: East Face), The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts: 1977 |
| Page Views: | 3,993 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Approach
From the end of S-Crack on "Lunch Ledge" traverse 80' right/east to an overhang with a crack. This is the start of the route.
Description
A very serious route. The consequences of falling on lead almost anywhere along this route will be significant up here. The route is for expert climbers with a cool head when things get dicey. Trust me... they will get dicey. The route is rarely done, so it will likely be flakey. If you thought the first pitch was mind-blowing, the second pitch will be just plain sick. Hang low on the midway belay so you can dodge your falling leader.
Protection
I recommend bringing 4 cams (0.5"-1.5"), 8 runners (24") & 16 carabiners. There are three bolts on the 2nd hanging belay now. Count your blessings.
Descent
Rappel 150' 2 times to "Lunch Ledge".
Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land.
Rappel 130' to S-Matrix.
Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.
Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land.
Rappel 130' to S-Matrix.
Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.
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