Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts: 1977
Page Views: 3,851 total · 19/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Approach Suggest change

From the end of S-Crack on "Lunch Ledge" traverse 80' right/east to an overhang with a crack. This is the start of the route.

Description Suggest change

A very serious route. The consequences of falling on lead almost anywhere along this route will be significant up here. The route is for expert climbers with a cool head when things get dicey. Trust me... they will get dicey. The route is rarely done, so it will likely be flakey. If you thought the first pitch was mind-blowing, the second pitch will be just plain sick. Hang low on the midway belay so you can dodge your falling leader.

Protection Suggest change

I recommend bringing 4 cams (0.5"-1.5"), 8 runners (24") & 16 carabiners. There are three bolts on the 2nd hanging belay now. Count your blessings.

Descent Suggest change

Rappel 150' 2 times to "Lunch Ledge".
Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land.
Rappel 130' to S-Matrix.
Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.