Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: George Lowe
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Best done on TR from S-Crack's 2nd pitch anchors, as the flake is VERY thin and fragile. You could bury some cams deep in there, but its probably not worth it. Lieback or jam your way up the great flake, reminiscent of the zion curtain, only shorter. Bypassing a annoying bush that destroys your mojo midway up is unavoidable.

Once the flake ends, you land on a large flat pillar ledge. Protect via small wires/cams and either slab it straight left or downclimb then stem over into the chimney on S-Cracks 2nd pitch.

Location

This is essentially just a variation to the 2nd pitch of s-crack. Climb up the first pitch of S crack and belay on the coyne crack tree anchors. Lean out right to gain access to the flake.

Protection

Bring a standard rack to finish on S-crack, but the flake takes mostly hand size to wide hands. 2-3 of #1-#3 camalot should do with long slings attached. The R was given in the Ruckman guide, either due to the delicate nature of the flake or possibly the lack of cams during the FA.

Photos

0 Comments