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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, June 21 2006
Page Views: 1,594 total, 11/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The crux is on the top, this ascends the East Face of The Thumb. It was my understanding that this Summit Block had never before been climbed in its entirety from the East Side to the top of the Thumb. We climbed it over two days with a bivy below the Block. It was an adventure which did not exclude quite a bit of gardening and pruning done on the lower pitches...which actually may be the crux. Climb many pitches in the gully to the right of the Matrix which has been the standard horror descent route for the Thumb. Some belays left in place, but this is a lot of terrain, so one hint at finding and staying on route is to start and continue up a buttress/arete type formation just up hill from The Plumbline route. Lots of 4th class and easy 5th down low. Head to the right side of the block and follow occasional bolts and fixed pitons to a steep hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Free climb up phenomenal knobs and patina to the very summit. These last pitches are the bread and butter of the route.

Hitching a ride to Bogota from the East, one would experience the jungle adventure/thrash just before reaching the beautiful clear mountain terrain and vistas that awaits.

Location

Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes. Chain still needs to be installed on these great rappel stations. Chain is already in on the top and the raps from the mangy tree have been eliminated.

Protection

All pitons used have been left fixed, but it takes a standard rack surprisingly well. All bolts left with hangers. Necessary, but easy to establish the belays.
Could we get a topo/beta pic? Nov 27, 2008
I agree it will be harder. I was happy that I could get away with placing so FEW bolts on the last pitches...I expected to be compelled to drill more. That is so cool you found the vertical forest pitch.
It's cool you got the second ascent, I appreciated your comments. Sep 18, 2006
Craig Martin
Park City
 
Craig Martin   Park City
 
I free climbed everything up to the last pitch. I found a tricky spot past a lone bolt on pitch 7, I thought this might be harder than 10 a/b, but I am not real good at the rating game. I did find the vertical forest pitch, nice ckickenheads and moves, I liked this pitch the most so your hard work has payed off, at least for me. On the last pitch I found it pretty hard getting past the second bolt and resorted to aid. Freed most of the splitter crack with chickenheads in the middle of the pitch, got scared and aided most of the handcrack in dihedral, and freed to the top. Nothing I free climbed on the last pitch was any harder than 10-, but freeing past the second bolt will be harder! Sep 17, 2006
Did you free the upper pitches, Craig? Yea, it is a adventure dirt fest in places, for sure Sep 16, 2006
Craig Martin
Park City
 
Craig Martin   Park City
 
Wow! This is definitely adventure climbing. I am still trying to get the dirt out of... well, everywhere. I don't know if I was off route or what but most of the lower pitches are quite shitty. Main difficulty down low was just finding good rock without bushes and trees sticking out everywhere, again, this could be a personal problem with route finding. Also, protection opportunities seemed few and far between on most of the lower pitches. I did find a nice trough type feature (5.6) on I believe pitch 6. The last two pitches are much better, and make up for most of the suffering encountered to get there.

I didn't really enjoy this route but sometimes that isn't the important part or even the goal when we go climbing. Great work James. Thanks for the rappel stations also. Sep 13, 2006
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
"Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes."

Just when I thought I would never summit the thumb again - "thanks" is not enough. Jul 7, 2006
James Thanks for adding those well-needed rap stations on the Thumb. Now, I can do the summit pitch. Jul 7, 2006