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Thumbing To Bogota
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1-2
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, June 21 2006 |
| Page Views: | 2,509 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jul 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The crux is on the top, this ascends the East Face of The Thumb. It was my understanding that this Summit Block had never before been climbed in its entirety from the East Side to the top of the Thumb. We climbed it over two days with a bivy below the Block. It was an adventure which did not exclude quite a bit of gardening and pruning done on the lower pitches...which actually may be the crux. Climb many pitches in the gully to the right of the Matrix which has been the standard horror descent route for the Thumb. Some belays left in place, but this is a lot of terrain, so one hint at finding and staying on route is to start and continue up a buttress/arete type formation just up hill from The Plumbline route. Lots of 4th class and easy 5th down low. Head to the right side of the block and follow occasional bolts and fixed pitons to a steep hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Free climb up phenomenal knobs and patina to the very summit. These last pitches are the bread and butter of the route.
Hitching a ride to Bogota from the East, one would experience the jungle adventure/thrash just before reaching the beautiful clear mountain terrain and vistas that awaits.
Hitching a ride to Bogota from the East, one would experience the jungle adventure/thrash just before reaching the beautiful clear mountain terrain and vistas that awaits.
Location
Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes. Chain still needs to be installed on these great rappel stations. Chain is already in on the top and the raps from the mangy tree have been eliminated.
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