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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,880 total, 23/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on May 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is the very highly recommended variation on Standard Thumb.

Pitch one:Start up the gully for about 20 feet and then move onto the right wall up steep cracks (fun moves) to the tree filled gully. Continue up through the trees and belay where the trees end.

Pitch two:Climb the great hand/arm crack continuing up and to the right until you come to a roof. Undercling to the right and up onto lunch ledge and an obvious belay.

You now have a few choices... up the awesome S-direct, up the classic trough pitch, or rappel.


Standard trad rack, long runners to girth hitch trees.


Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
No leave the trees alone! If you read the comments above, its specified how they can be avoided. Sep 8, 2017
Sandy, UTAH
jawshoeuh   Sandy, UTAH
Taking into account the history of Squeeze My Lemon at the Lizard Head Wall, I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to clear out the trees on this section? I do NOT plan on doing it, I'm just wondering. I know the trees aren't that bad, and they look beautiful in Fall. I really enjoyed this route. I was know some routes improve as they clean up and was just wondering about this one in particular. Sep 8, 2017
Billy Smallen
Salt Lake City, UT
Billy Smallen   Salt Lake City, UT
Just so everyone is aware a large block fell off the first pitch (double cracks above the gully before the trees) while we were climbing in February 2015 causing serious injuries. Be aware that there may be pieces yet to fall and the belay is super exposed. The bolts at the standard anchor were also smashed.

I would strongly recommend climbing past the first anchor (smashed bolts) you arrive at on when getting to this pitch (after pulling out of the wide crack on the Standard Route and into the tight gully). Keep going to a new pair of bolts with rings 30 ft up on your left that are for another climb. This will keep the belayer out of the line of fire should something else come down. Feb 23, 2015
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
With a 70 you can run both mentioned pitches together in 1 to the chain anchors above S-Crack's final 5.8 groove pitch.

As Boissal said, you can avoid the tree jugs by staying to the left of the gully - the cracks may be sporadically filled with veg, but it climbs fairly straightforward. Nov 11, 2013
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
You can avoid doing battle with the trees by staying on the left face. When the double cracks fade out shoot straight up in a system of discontinuous shallow cracks. A bit runout, probably 5.8ish, and a bit dirty. Seems like this line puts you between Indecent Exposure and Higher Expectations. Did it again yesterday and touched exactly 1 tree at the belay. Definitely the way to go. Oct 5, 2009
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Our favorite way to get to lunch ledge was always to cut right at the appropriate spot and belay at the start of the S-cracks 5.8 groove pitch. Its a great crack pitch that although a bit wide does not require any big gear. Up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot should be sufficient. Sep 14, 2009
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
2nd trad lead for me. Good solid moves for the beginning leader. Jan 21, 2009
yeah dawg, we were sleeping on lunch ledge so we tried a haul bag. Probably a bad idea. Jul 29, 2006
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
haul bag? Jul 27, 2006
Really fun unless you have a haul bag. Maybe it is because i don't know how to properly haul, but it took me and my buddy at least an hour to haul our bags up the first pitch of this variation. Other then that i would much prefer this variation over the dirty gully of the standard thumb. Oh yeah about half way up the "jungle" there is another variation, like a 5.5 traverse, that takes you to the killer 5.8 trough above the crux of s-crack. Jul 1, 2006
The "Jungle Gym" in the middle of the pitch does detract a bit...but definatly still the variation of choice to get to lunch ledge. Feb 26, 2006
Nathan Fisher
Nathan Fisher  
2 great sections of climbing. The lower twin cracks, that I thought were the best, and the upper crack. Unfortunately they are divided by a lengthy forest!!! Aug 22, 2004