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S-Direct, Variation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.9 from 24
votes
Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,755 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Michaels on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
At the 2nd belay station from S-Direct, head straight up. Still healthy runouts, but fun climbing linking chickenheads on less gritty rock. From the third bolt on the direct var., I could not see another bolt to my right on the original route as shown on the topo, where I remember from my previous ascent. I belayed at a small overlap, where you can get small but good cams, and sling a giant chickenhead just to the right. Pulling over this overlap, the climbing gets easier, though still runout. The anchor shown on the topo for the crux pitch is BAD - 2 quater inchers. One LONG pitch above the overlap will reach easy ground.
All in all, we enjoyed S-Direct (direct variation) tremendously. I would give the Variation one R, and the Original route 2 R's. Timid climbers and Good samaritans: still some manky and missing bolts up there to replace!One last note: the walkoff still sucks. I vote for a zipline from the summit of the Thumb to the Gate boulders.
All in all, we enjoyed S-Direct (direct variation) tremendously. I would give the Variation one R, and the Original route 2 R's. Timid climbers and Good samaritans: still some manky and missing bolts up there to replace!One last note: the walkoff still sucks. I vote for a zipline from the summit of the Thumb to the Gate boulders.
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